All 650's Suspension

[EuroBadger]

I’m going to make this clear because it’s not very helpful when people mention a specific weight and a specific setting for the rear shock. Honda should provide a table, so I’ll create one right now. Feel free to correct me if you think any of this is incorrect.

Let’s assume the minimum design load for this bike is 60kg. Therefore, preload setting 1 would be ideal for a rider weighing 60kg in their riding gear. The maximum load-carrying capacity (rider, passenger, luggage, and accessories) is 154kg. So, we’ll assume that this is ideal for preload setting 10. Using these limits, let’s do some simple math.

154-60=94kg weight range.
94/9=10.444kg per “click” of preload (there are 10 positions, but only 9 “steps/clicks” between positions).

Preload 1: 60kg
Preload 2: 70kg
Preload 3: 81kg
Preload 4: 91kg
Preload 5: 102kg
Preload 6: 112kg
Preload 7: 123kg
Preload 8: 133kg
Preload 9: 144kg
Preload 10: 154kg

Choose the closest setting to your load. If you’re between settings, go down for comfort or up for performance/stiffness. Try both and see which works better for you.

For my American friends, you can convert using this conversion ratio: 1kg = 2.20462lb.

Do you agree that the lightest design weight is 60kg, or should I adjust it? The upper weight limit is already set by Honda, so I think that’s correct. All of this is a guess since manufacturers don’t provide clear information on setting preload.

AFAIK, default (3rd) is 70kg and the lowest (1st) is 50kg.

 

[JDude]

Not a bad idea, I’m 190/185lbs / 86kg and the stock of setting 3 is way to soft. I ended up sticking with the #10 setting as I have enough gear on trips that it wasn’t worth switching around. I did have to adjust my headlight a ridiculously amount higher to be able to see with an extra load. It does make the front end want to leave the ground when accelerating.

 

[EuroBadger]

Not a bad idea, I’m 190/185lbs / 86kg and the stock of setting 3 is way to soft. I ended up sticking with the #10 setting as I have enough gear on trips that it wasn’t worth switching around. I did have to adjust my headlight a ridiculously amount higher to be able to see with an extra load. It does make the front end want to leave the ground when accelerating.

Wait, how in the hell do you adjust the headlight angle?

 

[JZA]

AFAIK, default (3rd) is 70kg and the lowest (1st) is 50kg.

Okay I’ll adjust the numbers to start at 50kg.

Minimum rider weight = 50 kg
Maximum load carrying capacity = 154 kg
154-50=104kg weight range.
104/9=11.556 kg per “click” of preload (there are 10 positions, but only 9 “steps/clicks” between positions).

Preload 1: 50 kg
Preload 2: 61.6 kg
Preload 3: 73.1 kg
Preload 4: 84.7 kg
Preload 5: 96.2 kg
Preload 6: 107.8 kg
Preload 7: 119.3 kg
Preload 8: 130.9 kg
Preload 9: 142.5 kg
Preload 10: 154kg

Choose the closest setting to your load.

 

[Brian C.]

Okay I’ll adjust the numbers to start at 50kg.

Minimum rider weight = 50 kg
Maximum load carrying capacity = 154 kg
154-50=104kg weight range.
104/9=11.556 kg per “click” of preload (there are 10 positions, but only 9 “steps/clicks” between positions).

Preload 1: 50 kg
Preload 2: 61.6 kg
Preload 3: 73.1 kg
Preload 4: 84.7 kg
Preload 5: 96.2 kg
Preload 6: 107.8 kg
Preload 7: 119.3 kg
Preload 8: 130.9 kg
Preload 9: 142.5 kg
Preload 10: 154kg

Choose the closest setting to your load.

I am somewhere around 98 kg so I would say your table is spot on, based on my experience!

 

[Cláudio Nogueira]

Okay I’ll adjust the numbers to start at 50kg.

Minimum rider weight = 50 kg
Maximum load carrying capacity = 154 kg
154-50=104kg weight range.
104/9=11.556 kg per “click” of preload (there are 10 positions, but only 9 “steps/clicks” between positions).

Preload 1: 50 kg
Preload 2: 61.6 kg
Preload 3: 73.1 kg
Preload 4: 84.7 kg
Preload 5: 96.2 kg
Preload 6: 107.8 kg
Preload 7: 119.3 kg
Preload 8: 130.9 kg
Preload 9: 142.5 kg
Preload 10: 154kg

Choose the closest setting to your load.

It´s not all about the rider weight, but mainly about your expectations and king of use. I live in Évora, where many road are cobble stones or even medieval style. I cannot use the shock setting on the harder side. Also don´t expect to take a sportive performance from the CB, so, softer side is my thing.
Tire pressure is the same. I never use the pressures Honda remomends, I always use a bit less. I use it as an average reference, but always a bit below.

 

[EuroBadger]

Tire pressure is the same. I never use the pressures Honda remomends, I always use a bit less. I use it as an average reference, but always a bit below.

IKR, doesn't Honda manual recommend F36/R42 psi with the CB650 for literally all riding circumstances? I have always thought that's very strange and dumb.

 

[miweber929]

IKR, doesn't Honda manual recommend F36/R42 psi with the CB650 for literally all riding circumstances? I have always thought that's very strange and dumb.

They do that because it “covers” everything they expect the bike to see. The spec also only applies to OEM tires so if you’ve replaced your tires it’s meaningless anyway.

 

[EuroBadger]

They do that because it “covers” everything they expect the bike to see. The spec also only applies to OEM tires so if you’ve replaced your tires it’s meaningless anyway.

I know why Honda does it. That doesn't make it not dumb. Yamaha gives different rear tyre pressure recommendations for the Tracer in case you have a pillion up.

 

[Redrocket]

Time was when all manufacturers provided details of tyre pressures solo and with passenger/luggage. Practically every new m/c I've bought in the last decade with seventeen inch wheels has recommended 36/42 psi. This cannot be the optimum if it covers bikes I've had with their considerable weight differences....Experimentation is needed IMHO. Small increments are best; it's the same with adjustable suspension. One size does not fit all.

 

[Cláudio Nogueira]

They do that because it “covers” everything they expect the bike to see. The spec also only applies to OEM tires so if you’ve replaced your tires it’s meaningless anyway.

Yes, there´s no absolute true on tire pressure. TP fine tuning on the edge depends on your expectation as user. What is good for track will not be the best for B-roads and cobble stone streets. This "one does it all" thing is a good average aproach that tends to be more wrong as you move away from those average usage conditions. I think

 

[miweber929]

This "one does it all" thing is a good average aproach that tends to be more wrong as you move away from those average usage conditions. I think

I have yet to have an issue with 36/42 on anything but a track. I do run tires lower, much lower depending on the tire and conditions, but those had worked for me, and I have a buddy who still ALWAYS runs 36/42 even to this day, in the past.

 

[JDude]

Wait, how in the hell do you adjust the headlight angle?

There is an adjuster behind the headlight, if you check the manual, it‘ll provide more details.

 

[JZA]

It´s not all about the rider weight, but mainly about your expectations and king of use. I live in Évora, where many road are cobble stones or even medieval style. I cannot use the shock setting on the harder side. Also don´t expect to take a sportive performance from the CB, so, softer side is my thing.
Tire pressure is the same. I never use the pressures Honda remomends, I always use a bit less. I use it as an average reference, but always a bit below.

Adjusting the preload doesn’t make the shock/spring harder or softer, it just affects preload and therefore sag. Sag affects handling because it changes the head angle etc. the only way to make the spring stiffer is to replace it with a different spring. All technical jargon aside, you are welcome to run the bike however it works best for you. Happy riding!!

 

[EuroBadger]

I have a buddy who still ALWAYS runs 36/42 even to this day, in the past.

That's the equivalent of "your ideal body weight" on Google - no issue, probably healthy, but still kinda silly, and far from optimal performance.

Adjusting the preload doesn’t make the shock/spring harder or softer, it just affects preload and therefore sag. Sag affects handling because it changes the head angle etc. the only way to make the spring stiffer is to replace it with a different spring. All technical jargon aside, you are welcome to run the bike however it works best for you. Happy riding!!

What I've experienced IRL is that an oversprung suspension makes it unresponsive to additional load until the excess load tops the overspringing. For instance, if you weigh 80kg and you set your shock preload to 90kg the shock responds very harshly to additional load i.e. road irregularities, etc. up to 10kg. Believe it has to do with the equilibrium of forces in the spring but I'm no physics expert so anyone can correct me if I'm wrong

 

[JZA]

That's the equivalent of "your ideal body weight" on Google - no issue, probably healthy, but still kinda silly, and far from optimal performance.


What I've experienced IRL is that an oversprung suspension makes it unresponsive to additional load until the excess load tops the overspringing. For instance, if you weigh 80kg and you set your shock preload to 90kg the shock responds very harshly to additional load i.e. road irregularities, etc. up to 10kg. Believe it has to do with the equilibrium of forces in the spring but I'm no physics expert so anyone can correct me if I'm wrong

If you over-preload the spring, you might end up riding at the top of the travel and bouncing. However, you’d have to get the preload completely wrong. On the other hand, if you run the preload too low, you could ride with the shock sacked out and bottom it out every time you hit a bump. This will also affect your head angle, making the bike handle poorly. You need to set the preload so it’s correct for your weight or at least close to it.