All 650's Suspension

[koofdome]

Yeah, I'm not saying 'optimum' for what he wants; just that his shock is set up as best as possible for his weight and riding to use most of it's range and not run out of compression stroke over bumps.

@koofdome, I mixed up your weight for 240, and not 215. I'm about 205 lbs with all gear, and on my R I found the stock preload of 2 let me bottom out only on deep potholes. It didn't happen often, but when it does, it's noticeable, lol. I imagine the F isn't much different, so you're probably not bottoming out as easily as I first thought. Still, if you set up rear sag like Dave Moss suggests (since you mentioned his videos), you'll find you need to add some preload. Setting the preload to 5 on my bike improved the ride and I haven't bottomed out since, but assuming the shock doesn't have any issues, you might need to look at aftermarket options if a correctly adjusted stock setup just isn't to your liking.

Added photo hopefully it helps. Looks like it's on #2. Would going up in numbers help the ride be less rough? Every bump in the road is as if I hit a dam pothole lol. I'm too heavy maybe for #2

 

[miweber929]

Thanks for the pic. It almost looks to me like you are on 3 but without seeing the manual I can tell if Honda considers the big jump from 7 as position 1 or not. Anyway, drop it back a notch and see if it helps.

Can you give us a better understanding of what you are feeling besides “every bump hurts my ass“? Lije is it sharp bumps, potholes, big bumps, a certain street in poor shape, or something like that? Does it jar you? Do you feel it when the bump first hits or when the suspension reacts? Does it bounce you out of your seat when it reacts? Is it every little bump you feel or just the big hits? What happens when you sit on the seat or press hard on it with your hands, how far does it sink? I don’t need an exact measurement but just can you easily push it down and have it pop back up?

Back to @Dankotaru’s point, do you feel like you’re bottoming out or that the suspension isn’t moving? If you had to describe the feeling as if you were in a car would it be more riding in a 1 ton pickup with no load over a set of railroad tracks bouncy or more 1982 Pontiac Catalina with original shocks and 350,000 miles on it going over railroad tracks bouncy?

 

[koofdome]

Thanks for the pic. It almost looks to me like you are on 3 but without seeing the manual I can tell if Honda considers the big jump from 7 as position 1 or not. Anyway, drop it back a notch and see if it helps.

Can you give us a better understanding of what you are feeling besides “every bump hurts my ass“? Lije is it sharp bumps, potholes, big bumps, a certain street in poor shape, or something like that? Does it jar you? Do you feel it when the bump first hits or when the suspension reacts? Does it bounce you out of your seat when it reacts? Is it every little bump you feel or just the big hits? What happens when you sit on the seat or press hard on it with your hands, how far does it sink? I don’t need an exact measurement but just can you easily push it down and have it pop back up?

Back to @Dankotaru’s point, do you feel like you’re bottoming out or that the suspension isn’t moving? If you had to describe the feeling as if you were in a car would it be more riding in a 1 ton pickup with no load over a set of railroad tracks bouncy or more 1982 Pontiac Catalina with original shocks and 350,000 miles on it going over railroad tracks bouncy?

Today after work I am going to go for a ride and I will really pay attention to exactly what I am feeling.

I just remember my CB300R I had the suspension put on #7 and it made the bike really tall, and it felt less "ouch".

I almost feel as if it kick me out of the seat and I have to squeeze the tank with my knees. I will pay deep attention while I ride tonight & get back.

 

[koofdome]

Thanks for the pic. It almost looks to me like you are on 3 but without seeing the manual I can tell if Honda considers the big jump from 7 as position 1 or not. Anyway, drop it back a notch and see if it helps.

Can you give us a better understanding of what you are feeling besides “every bump hurts my ass“? Lije is it sharp bumps, potholes, big bumps, a certain street in poor shape, or something like that? Does it jar you? Do you feel it when the bump first hits or when the suspension reacts? Does it bounce you out of your seat when it reacts? Is it every little bump you feel or just the big hits? What happens when you sit on the seat or press hard on it with your hands, how far does it sink? I don’t need an exact measurement but just can you easily push it down and have it pop back up?

Back to @Dankotaru’s point, do you feel like you’re bottoming out or that the suspension isn’t moving? If you had to describe the feeling as if you were in a car would it be more riding in a 1 ton pickup with no load over a set of railroad tracks bouncy or more 1982 Pontiac Catalina with original shocks and 350,000 miles on it going over railroad tracks bouncy?

Looking closer at my photo, I notice that impact/silver scuff looking mark. Is this a sign it bottomed out on a big bump? It looks like a hard impact mark.... you see it?

 

[miweber929]

Looking closer at my photo, I notice that impact/silver scuff looking mark. Is this a sign it bottomed out on a big bump? It looks like a hard impact mark.... you see it?

At the edge of the black “base”? No, that’s just a manufacturing mark. You’d not really see anything if it’s bottoming out, just feel it. If you were running your 300 on 7 then yeah, maybe bottoming out is what you’re feeling. Do you ever take a passenger?

Here is what I’d suggest: ride a known section of road, see how it feels. Lower the preload 1 notch, see if it’s better (make the spring longer). Then raise it to #4 (or 2 above stock), ride the same road and see if that’s better. That will tell you if you’re going in the right direction.

I can say for certain the 650 is a bigger, “harder” and stiffer riding bike than the 300 would be. The seat itself isn’t particularly soft, especially at first, so it will feel hard when you ride.

 

[koofdome]

At the edge of the black “base”? No, that’s just a manufacturing mark. You’d not really see anything if it’s bottoming out, just feel it. If you were running your 300 on 7 then yeah, maybe bottoming out is what you’re feeling. Do you ever take a passenger?

Here is what I’d suggest: ride a known section of road, see how it feels. Lower the preload 1 notch, see if it’s better (make the spring longer). Then raise it to #4 (or 2 above stock), ride the same road and see if that’s better. That will tell you if you’re going in the right direction.

I can say for certain the 650 is a bigger, “harder” and stiffer riding bike than the 300 would be. The seat itself isn’t particularly soft, especially at first, so it will feel hard when you ride.

Hmmm that makes sense. I guess I was too used to the 3 yrs i owned my 300. The 650 just feels harder and heavier.

I have a perfect twisting forest road that I know like the back of my hand for a decade now. I will take a trip out there and see how those adjustments feel. I appreciate it!!

Only thing that sucks...I dont have the C tool to adjust the spring. My dealer never included the tool kit under the seat...perhaps I can buy a decent price one somewhere? Do u know? THANKS!!!!

 

[Dankotaru]

Added photo hopefully it helps. Looks like it's on #2. Would going up in numbers help the ride be less rough? Every bump in the road is as if I hit a dam pothole lol. I'm too heavy maybe for #2

That is position #2. At 215 you're only a bit heavier than me, so I know that your static sag isn't ideal on position 2. I moved mine to 5 and it was noticeably better, but I have an R. On the F, that's equivalent to 3.5. So try moving it up to 3 or 4 and see how she rides for you. But remember that changing the preload doesn't change the spring rate, nor does it change the shock's damping characteristics. It does change where the shock's piston and the spring sit relative to the shock body when you're sitting on the bike (static position), which can improve its ability to function within its intended range of travel without bottoming out. But if the shock is compressing with you on the bike, and extending with you off of it (so we know it's not broken and you DO have static sag), and you're not bottoming out (I did several times on my R before I adjusted the preload and it's very noticeable), then it could be that it's just too stiff for your liking and you need to look to the aftermarket.

I have this tool which has worked well for me to adjust all kinds of shock collars, both motorcycle and coil-overs:

Pit Posse Adjustable Steering Stem Wrench

Check out the deal on Pit Posse Adjustable Steering Stem Wrench at Pit Posse

www.pitposse.com

 

[miweber929]

Only thing that sucks...I dont have the C tool to adjust the spring. My dealer never included the tool kit under the seat...perhaps I can buy a decent price one somewhere? Do u know? THANKS!!!!

Honda hasn’t included since 2011 or 2013 (can’t remember when) however you can buy them from any OEM parts supply store, around $75. But really any generic spanner will work, I’ve seen them at Harbor Freight, bicycle shops have some or I’ve bought some decent ones on Amazon for my Ohlins. Maybe even see what the dealer has; you can bang it with a hammer and punch but I wouldn’t suggest that.

Good luck!!!

 

[koofdome]

That is position #2. At 215 you're only a bit heavier than me, so I know that your static sag isn't ideal on position 2. I moved mine to 5 and it was noticeably better, but I have an R. On the F, that's equivalent to 3.5. So try moving it up to 3 or 4 and see how she rides for you. But remember that changing the preload doesn't change the spring rate, nor does it change the shock's damping characteristics. It does change where the shock's piston and the spring sit relative to the shock body when you're sitting on the bike (static position), which can improve its ability to function within its intended range of travel without bottoming out. But if the shock is compressing with you on the bike, and extending with you off of it (so we know it's not broken and you DO have static sag), and you're not bottoming out (I did several times on my R before I adjusted the preload and it's very noticeable), then it could be that it's just too stiff for your liking and you need to look to the aftermarket.

I have this tool which has worked well for me to adjust all kinds of shock collars, both motorcycle and coil-overs:

Pit Posse Adjustable Steering Stem Wrench

Check out the deal on Pit Posse Adjustable Steering Stem Wrench at Pit Posse

www.pitposse.com

thank you for the time you've taken. I put it on setting 4 and it feels definitely better. Perhaps aftermarket will make it a dream to ride, but this feels so much better now.

thank U!!!!!!

 

[ghehen]

thank you for the time you've taken. I put it on setting 4 and it feels definitely better. Perhaps aftermarket will make it a dream to ride, but this feels so much better now.

thank U!!!!!!

Your pevious setting on picture as same as me and i'm around 200lbs with full protection on, that setting absolutely too soft for you. Glad to see u can enjoy your riding now.

 

[Squirmy]

Seriously considering purchasing the rear Ohlins shock and Ohlins front fork springs for the 2019/20 cb650r. I suppose the main question is is it worth it? If you had to choose what to upgrade first, would it be the rear shock or front fork springs? I will have them set up professionally but will only realllyyy bother if the front fork springs are adjustable (obviously, so i can have them adjusted to my weight etc xD) It would be very much appreciated if someone with a 2019/2020 cb650r and has the Ohlins front fork springs installed could let me know if they are adjustable in any way.
Many thanks in advance

 

[russ_fae_fyvie]

I'd also be interested to hear if anyone has upgraded the rear shock and to which one ?

 

[EuroBadger]

It's f***ing 2022 and no one has figured this out yet because Honda never made it clear in the owner's manual. Great job Honda, great job.
According to what I've found the default setting (position #3) is for rider weight around 70kg, and you change the preload every +/-10kg. I weigh around 80kg so mine's on #4 but now I feel the seat is way too tilted forward like a sportbike. Not sure if I want to stick around this setting.

 

[EuroBadger]

It's f***ing 2022 and no one has figured this out yet because Honda never made it clear in the owner's manual. Great job Honda, great job.
According to what I've found the default setting (position #3) is for rider weight around 70kg, and you change the preload every +/-10kg. I weigh around 80kg so mine's on #4 but now I feel the seat is way too tilted forward like a sportbike. Not sure if I want to stick around this setting.

Update: I resumed to the default preload setting(#3) and my butt, wrists, and legs all feel much more comfortable because my weight couldn't push down the rear spring into a natural position at #4. At #4 it felt like I was an a fully faired sportbike because of the forward-tilted seat.

 

[EuroBadger]

Update: I resumed to the default preload setting(#3) and my butt, wrists, and legs all feel much more comfortable because my weight couldn't push down the rear spring into a natural position at #4. At #4 it felt like I was an a fully faired sportbike because of the forward-tilted seat.

2nd Update: I switched back to setting #4 for the support the forward-tilted seat provides. At #3, I had to grip the bike with my knees extremely hard to stay in place when riding 90+mph or the wind would push me backwards.
Also this one is probably a placebo thing, but the bike looks taller and bigger when I'm on it with higher rear spring preload.

 

[Brian C.]

I also found your post useful. I am about 95Kg and wound mine up to 5 from the default and found it much better so your maths seems to work on the settings (for me at least) thanks!
I found the original setting a little soft, but 5 seems to work well for me, not feeling pitched forward, but a little more weight on my wrists actually helps with the "feel" of the bike, I am finding. Probably going to fiddle a little more as I get used to it, but I'm currently happy with it.

 

[jayyrable]

I'm about 80kg or 177 lbs and 169cm or 5'5".
What is a good configuration for my preload adjustment?

 

[Brammers]

Try #4 and go from there

 

[NorfantsPete]

I'm about 80kg or 177 lbs and 169cm or 5'5".
What is a good configuration for my preload adjustment?

you need to get the tape measure out and do it properly.

Mine is forward not like a race bike but enough and quite hard the preload is 28mm on notch 3 (1 being saggy and 7 being squashed spring)

Im moving mine back to position 2 (one up from fully extended) as the bike sag at 28mm is in my eyes not saggy enough for road use.

 

[JZA]

I’m going to make this clear because it’s not very helpful when people mention a specific weight and a specific setting for the rear shock. Honda should provide a table, so I’ll create one right now. Feel free to correct me if you think any of this is incorrect.

Let’s assume the minimum design load for this bike is 60kg. Therefore, preload setting 1 would be ideal for a rider weighing 60kg in their riding gear. The maximum load-carrying capacity (rider, passenger, luggage, and accessories) is 154kg. So, we’ll assume that this is ideal for preload setting 10. Using these limits, let’s do some simple math.

154-60=94kg weight range.
94/9=10.444kg per “click” of preload (there are 10 positions, but only 9 “steps/clicks” between positions).

Preload 1: 60kg
Preload 2: 70kg
Preload 3: 81kg
Preload 4: 91kg
Preload 5: 102kg
Preload 6: 112kg
Preload 7: 123kg
Preload 8: 133kg
Preload 9: 144kg
Preload 10: 154kg

Choose the closest setting to your load. If you’re between settings, go down for comfort or up for performance/stiffness. Try both and see which works better for you.

For my American friends, you can convert using this conversion ratio: 1kg = 2.20462lb.

Do you agree that the lightest design weight is 60kg, or should I adjust it? The upper weight limit is already set by Honda, so I think that’s correct. All of this is a guess since manufacturers don’t provide clear information on setting preload.