All 650's PAIR Valve Removal

[Cracker]

Okay, i think i got it now..will remove the reed screws or drill the plates. Thanks 👍👍

 

[Johnboy82]

im looking to install a PC5 soon , the main reason being I wanted a smoother throttle off / on as well as smoother all round ride. however after reading through all of this thread ( and hopefully understanding most of it ) I just was after clarification on is blanking off the PAIR a must do either prior or at the same time as I install the PC5 & probably a new air filter too ? im gonna install it myself so I may as well go for the whole lot shouldn't I ?
Also does anyone know if this will affect my bikes UK MOT test ? do they test emissions on bikes ? I own a 2017 UK model with a Akra system ( S-H6R11-AFT ) if so perhaps just blanking off the hose's in the best way ? also this may suite my massive hands and little patience better ?

 

[baugustine]

Okay, i think i got it now..will remove the reed screws or drill the plates. Thanks 👍👍

super easy to remove the reed valves. You'll break all 4 screw heads and they will fall out!

 

[baugustine]

im looking to install a PC5 soon , the main reason being I wanted a smoother throttle off / on as well as smoother all round ride. however after reading through all of this thread ( and hopefully understanding most of it ) I just was after clarification on is blanking off the PAIR a must do either prior or at the same time as I install the PC5 & probably a new air filter too ? im gonna install it myself so I may as well go for the whole lot shouldn't I ?
Also does anyone know if this will affect my bikes UK MOT test ? do they test emissions on bikes ? I own a 2017 UK model with a Akra system ( S-H6R11-AFT ) if so perhaps just blanking off the hose's in the best way ? also this may suite my massive hands and little patience better ?

Huge change in the throttle response (making it smoother). You will not really need the PCV unless you have a specific tuning requirement based on other mods (do a search on TAG of PCV for several threads on this)

There are quite a few comments already on blanking vs hose removal. Your call based on the opinions of others.

Should not affect your MOT ( @Brammers )?

 

[Brammers]

UK Bike MOT test does not have an emissions check in it, this mod will not affect that.

J

 

[Johnboy82]

As soon as I took off the lower half of airbox and saw the rats nest to get at the valves, I opted for leaving and capping hose. As I see, the minimal weight reduction is not worth removing.

Did you still need to fit the resistor Doing it that method or is all that still plugged in ?

 

[myarza]

Just finished the install and 1st test ride after pair valve removal. 2018 CB650F: Full Akra, K&N and PCV. Almost all decel popping is gone, I had a lot in 3rd and 4th gears. Honestly I kinda liked it, sounded very aggressive, but I am much happier with it gone. The jerkiness in between 1st and 2nd and 2nd and 3rd is much less now, overall a smoother ride. I highly recommend doing this if you have similar mods as myself.
Some tips:
*Take your time, when removing fasteners do not force anything use JIS screwdrivers if you have them or any other quality screwdriver so not to strip any screws.
*Remove the tank completely you can probably do it with it propped up but you will need every inch of maneuvering space when trying to install the block off plates. Its a tight squeeze.
*Use a 3 inch and 6 inch extender when tightening and torquing down the bolts, you can come from the outside of the frame from the front which will allow for a perfect angle on the bolts.

 

[Johnboy82]

Thanks for the feedback and tips guys.
I’m thinking that perhaps I will just start for blocking off the hose / intake with a hose clip or bung for now as it does seem a lot of work to do the full job when I could get virtually the same results with a much simpler method.
Then I will access the results and see if I even bother with a PCV ( as @baugustine mentions ) I think if I do go for the PCV / air filter fit then I will go full on with the plates install- it does seem like a much bigger job than I first thought - and I’m not to well educated with messing about with engine’s and motors.

 

[G4m30v3r]

Hi guys

Okay so i have the block off plates from smart moto laying around and figured its time to do the mod.

I plan on keeping the original exhaust, but i read earlier in this thread that it will destroy my catalytic converter. Thats why i never went ahead with the mod.

If someone would be kind enough to explain in a bit more detail in what way it will be ruined, i mean does it clog up and will it get worse over time ?

Im ok if it only affects emmisions test.

Bonus questions, is there different versions of the smart moto plates ? I read somewhere that someone has the new version of them or something.
Will the block off plates be noticed somehow by the dealer when i take it in for service.

My bike is a CB650R 2019(euro)

Thanks in advance guys, this forum is really helpfull!

The ones you order now are recessed so you just slap them on with reed valve/screws in place.

 

[baugustine]

Thanks for the feedback and tips guys.
I’m thinking that perhaps I will just start for blocking off the hose / intake with a hose clip or bung for now as it does seem a lot of work to do the full job when I could get virtually the same results with a much simpler method.
Then I will access the results and see if I even bother with a PCV ( as @baugustine mentions ) I think if I do go for the PCV / air filter fit then I will go full on with the plates install- it does seem like a much bigger job than I first thought - and I’m not to well educated with messing about with engine’s and motors.

Observation only: its’s not a very big or complicated job if you have some standard hand tools. I waited until it was time to change the air filter, because you are 70% of the way there to get to the air box. Make sure you have JIS screwdrivers, as the screws that hold the air horns are tight and will strip with a conventional #2 Phillips.

 

[adammatheww]

Hi
If you do not want to go through the whole process of installing the plates and removing the solenoid
you have to cap off the hose running on top and across the air box and the hole where the hose is connected, make sure to block both of them!!
if you have doubts feel free to post further questions.

Hi sorry to bring this back up so late on!
I'm just about to do this, and sorry if this is a dumb question, but if I shove a marble into the hose and simply reconnect the now blocked hose back to the airbox hole will I be good to go?

 

[MrFritz86]

Hi sorry to bring this back up so late on!
I'm just about to do this, and sorry if this is a dumb question, but if I shove a marble into the hose and simply reconnect the now blocked hose back to the airbox hole will I be good to go?

yes it should be fine
make sure the marble is big enough that doesn't go inside the airbox hole
you might wanna place some clamps (like the one holding the hose to the airbox) to prevent the marble to move

 

[biggoofy]

Well those screws holding the plastic cover over the intake/throttle bodies are made of butter. Stripped one completely and couldn't continue with my block off plate installation. Will probably tear it apart again when the season is over and just shove something in the tube to cut off air flow.

 

[Brammers]

Let me guess, used a #2 Phillips driver?

 

[biggoofy]

Let me guess, used a #2 Phillips driver?

I started with Phillips and by the time I read these posts again and found my JIS bits, it was too late. I got all but one out. Since riding the bike more I've gotten used to the throttle, you just have to roll on slowly and feather the clutch a little more. I have a throttle tamer installed so that helps a little as well.

 

[myarza]

Well those screws holding the plastic cover over the intake/throttle bodies are made of butter. Stripped one completely and couldn't continue with my block off plate installation. Will probably tear it apart again when the season is over and just shove something in the tube to cut off air flow.

Yeah, had the same issue initial when trying to remove the first screw. I found the Icon screwdrivers from Harbor Fright work really well, you need to apply a lot of straight downward pressure onto the screw in order to stop stripping. I actually used the palm of my one hand to press down on the screwdriver while the other hand turned, seemed to work for me. JIS or Japanese Industrial Standard screw drivers work well too. You can take a dremel and cut a line deep enough but not too deep in order to get a flathead in there to remove the stripped screw. Good luck, I think the mod is worth the hassle.

 

[inf4cti0n]

I bought the SmartMoto PAIR removal kit and a 24Ohms/10Watts resistor (as there will be 6Watts of power consumption with 24Ohms at 12Volts).
Will there be any rattling noises, if I keep the "reed plates" inside the engine or do I have to remove them (and break the screws)?

 

[Brammers]

No, they can stay. The blanking plates prevent them from "flapping" anyway.

 

[Ryan Preece]

Hi all, have read this thread in it’s entirety. Hope I’m doing the right thing by not starting a new thread and posting here instead. I’ve done 400 miles on my CBR650R now. I’m guessing the “bib bib b bib” sound and feel as you roll off the throttle at lower RPM and lower gears is the pair valve? People’s experience of the sound seems to vary. It not only has an annoying sound by the whole bike vibrates a bit and stutters around, almost like as if the clutch was juddering. If someone can confirm this is the problem for me, can I go ahead on this particular bike and block the rear airbox hole to the valve and the end of the same pipe, having removed it from the airbox hole? Does this do the whole job in the easiest possible way and lead to no engine warning lights? I see others sometimes blank off the reeds but I’d like the option to revert back to stock just in case, in the future. Many thanks

 

[MrFritz86]

Hi all, have read this thread in it’s entirety. Hope I’m doing the right thing by not starting a new thread and posting here instead. I’ve done 400 miles on my CBR650R now. I’m guessing the “bib bib b bib” sound and feel as you roll off the throttle at lower RPM and lower gears is the pair valve? People’s experience of the sound seems to vary. It not only has an annoying sound by the whole bike vibrates a bit and stutters around, almost like as if the clutch was juddering. If someone can confirm this is the problem for me, can I go ahead on this particular bike and block the rear airbox hole to the valve and the end of the same pipe, having removed it from the airbox hole? Does this do the whole job in the easiest possible way and lead to no engine warning lights? I see others sometimes blank off the reeds but I’d like the option to revert back to stock just in case, in the future. Many thanks

I do confirm that my bike was behaving just like yours, after installing the block off plates, it was much much smoother.

You can block the hole on the airbox and that very same pipe to close everything.