All 650Rs Quickshifter Opinions

[nikitsobaka]

I have the OE QS, and I have false neutrals 1 in 50 times maby.. But I read somewhere else, that a shorter push on the rod (adjustment of the shifter) should eliminate the false neutrals. It also will do so, if you pushes it ALLL the way, when you shift up

So I read some posts and ordered RaceTorx support. All reviews are good. I hope it will help.

 

[Tony650r]

I ended up getting a healtech one purely just because I got it for $200 AUD, They're $567 AUD brand new, and I was quoted $400 for the OEM one with a 4 month wait.

I’m looking at different qs options. How is the healtech working out for you? I’m hoping it shifts well in low to mid rpm, and not just high rpm. Is the Bluetooth calibration easy to dial in?

 

[miweber929]

I’m hoping it shifts well in low to mid rpm, and not just high rpm.

Just jumping in here to say QSs in general do not work well in low to mid rpm ranges, so you’ll struggle to find anything to work well there. The more sophisticated, modern, OEM fitted units on higher end bikes can work better than aftermarket ones since they can read all sorts of parameters and adjust the kill time accordingly, but if you’re looking for one to almost eliminate the clutch once you take off you’ll be disappointed. Your kill time will be far too short at those low rpm’s to be able to execute a smooth shift and it will be rough shifting.

I will say the up only QS on my Tracer GT works great in the ~5,000 rpm range, and much, much better than the Ducati one at those same RPMs but the OEM unit on my Supersport is unbelievable above 6,500 rpm. I still feel unless you’re a track rider it’s a bit more of a gimmick than anything but I do use it more now that I have 2 bikes with one.

 

[Ian Warren]

I know that there is no blipper for cb's, BUT my question was, if the QS is still cutting the ignition when you downshift manualy, WITH the clutch. Because the sensor on a shifting rod doesn't know the direction you are shifting, it just sences the pressure and cutting the ignition, no mater up or down you press. Is that the case or the QS sees the revs go down so the QS doesn't cut the ignition when downshifting?

No it doesn’t.
The switch in the OEM Quickshifter and the h aftermarket ones only cut the ignition when you click the shifter UP, there is no down switch so it can’t cut it going down.

Up Down are known as Quickshifter/blippers have separate up / down switches (or strain gauges) and Quickshift by cutting ignition for upshifts and blips the throttle using a signal to the ECU to match revs for downshifts.
There is no up & down system for the CBR650R and family bikes as two was systems generally only work on bike with ride by wire throttles which are far easier to create the throttle blip.
On our bikes the throttle is controlled by a cable used to open throttle bodies so without a thriller movement you can’t get extra air in which would make throwing more fuel in pointless.

I highly rate the OEM Quickshifter, I fitted it to my bike almost straight away!
£200 new and un-used off EBay, very easy DIY fit and well worth it in my opinion.

(PS my next bike arriving soon has a buttery smooth up/down QS but as a much more expensive full electronics Ducati V2 Panigale it’s not a cheap thing).

 

[Ian Warren]

Just jumping in here to say QSs in general do not work well in low to mid rpm ranges, so you’ll struggle to find anything to work well there. The more sophisticated, modern, OEM fitted units on higher end bikes can work better than aftermarket ones since they can read all sorts of parameters and adjust the kill time accordingly, but if you’re looking for one to almost eliminate the clutch once you take off you’ll be disappointed. Your kill time will be far too short at those low rpm’s to be able to execute a smooth shift and it will be rough shifting.

I will say the up only QS on my Tracer GT works great in the ~5,000 rpm range, and much, much better than the Ducati one at those same RPMs but the OEM unit on my Supersport is unbelievable above 6,500 rpm. I still feel unless you’re a track rider it’s a bit more of a gimmick than anything but I do use it more now that I have 2 bikes with one.

Ducati V2 Panigale QS (up/down) is smooth as silk at pretty much any engine speed, 21 CBR650R is OK lower down but definitely easier and slicker at med/high rpm.

So your spot on in your post!

 

[Tony650r]

Just jumping in here to say QSs in general do not work well in low to mid rpm ranges, so you’ll struggle to find anything to work well there. The more sophisticated, modern, OEM fitted units on higher end bikes can work better than aftermarket ones since they can read all sorts of parameters and adjust the kill time accordingly, but if you’re looking for one to almost eliminate the clutch once you take off you’ll be disappointed. Your kill time will be far too short at those low rpm’s to be able to execute a smooth shift and it will be rough shifting.

I will say the up only QS on my Tracer GT works great in the ~5,000 rpm range, and much, much better than the Ducati one at those same RPMs but the OEM unit on my Supersport is unbelievable above 6,500 rpm. I still feel unless you’re a track rider it’s a bit more of a gimmick than anything but I do use it more now that I have 2 bikes with one.

Yeah that’s what I’ve been reading, that the up only cable throttle bikes like ours are clunky down low. I’ve never tried a qs, and I’ve always found it appealing to be able to bang the gears with the throttle pinned, so that’s the main thing. But I wouldn’t mind if it worked decently lower down as well, and it seems there’s more than a handful of people saying the Honda oem qs isn’t great in that respect. However the healtech I believe is using a different kind of sensor, and that the kill time parameters can be played with. I wonder if this could result in smooth shifts in all rpm and overall compared to oem and other aftermarket. I’ve asked around the forum a little to other guys that said they have a healtech, how they like it. Hopefully someone can give us a review soon 🙏.

 

[Brammers]

You can get a QS to be smooth at low revs, unfortunately that upsets the kill timings at high revs.

The Dynotech one allows kills times to be set per gear - which helps, but it's still a case of needing the cogs to be really spinning for it to be smooth.

Let's be honest, you don't fit a QS because you want to short shift at 4k. Get it wound up at 10k and then it's smooth as silk and going like a rocket!

J

 

[Tony650r]

You can get a QS to be smooth at low revs, unfortunately that upsets the kill timings at high revs.

The Dynotech one allows kills times to be set per gear - which helps, but it's still a case of needing the cogs to be really spinning for it to be smooth.

Let's be honest, you don't fit a QS because you want to short shift at 4k. Get it wound up at 10k and then it's smooth as silk and going like a rocket!

J

Thanks Brammers for the input. That confirms what I thought about it being so customizable. Still, hopefully someone can give a first hand account. But did you mean healtech or is there another brand called dyno tech?

 

[Brammers]

Dynotech is a brand... They make the power commander. I have one fitted for fual mapping so it made sense to use their qs as there isn't an oem option on the 650f.

J

 

[Avf130]

Hello,
I have Dimmsport Rapid bike installed. Does it hurt installing the OEM Honda quickshifter?

Thank you