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CB650F Reset throttle position CB650F

Maxi

2014
CB650F ABS
May 26, 2019
Hi all,

I just buy 2014 cb650f recently. When I ride this buy the throttle seem not back to normal or late if i am not press the clutch handle, I assume thus bike need to reset ECU and throttle position. I can reset ECU, but cannot find the ECT witch sensor, can someone help me how to reset throtle position and location ECT switch sensor? Appreciate with picture.
Oh and btw is this bike have idle screw?

Thanks

Max
 
Last edited:

Brammers

2014
CBR650F ABS
Staff
May 30, 2014
Hampshire, England
Sounds like you should check the freeplay in the throttle. Start there as its simple.

The throttle positioning sensor (TPS) is on the left hand side of the throttle body and is black.

There is no direct idle speed adjustment possible. If idle when warm is not ~1200rpm then you have an issue elsewhere that's needs attention. See service manual page 3-10 for details /steps.

J
 

Maxi

2014
CB650F ABS
May 26, 2019
thank
Sounds like you should check the freeplay in the throttle. Start there as its simple.

The throttle positioning sensor (TPS) is on the left hand side of the throttle body and is black.

There is no direct idle speed adjustment possible. If idle when warm is not ~1200rpm then you have an issue elsewhere that's needs attention. See service manual page 3-10 for details /steps.

J
thanks for info, I will check tommorow.
 

Pauleen2020

2016
CBR650F
Apr 26, 2020
Riding Since
2018
Thankyou I've been using these pages already, I've managed to complete the error clearing to then do this to reset but for some reason the engine light is staying on instead of doing the successful reset blinks. Instead, the abs light comes on and does some other blinks. I don't get it I tried 5 times in a row did the same thing. Everything on the bike was connected properly only the ect connector was different to access it to jump it.

The reason I'm doing this reset is I replaced the ECU with a different but same part number (ending do3) and everything works except it idles from 3k-2k from cold to warm. And when I swap the old ECU back in it idles fine which is why I'm hoping this to reset will fix that.
 

miweber929

2014
CBR650F
650 Alumnus
Staff
Feb 13, 2015
Woodbury, MN
Riding Since
1975
Thankyou I've been using these pages already, I've managed to complete the error clearing to then do this to reset but for some reason the engine light is staying on instead of doing the successful reset blinks. Instead, the abs light comes on and does some other blinks. I don't get it I tried 5 times in a row did the same thing. Everything on the bike was connected properly only the ect connector was different to access it to jump it.

The reason I'm doing this reset is I replaced the ECU with a different but same part number (ending do3) and everything works except it idles from 3k-2k from cold to warm. And when I swap the old ECU back in it idles fine which is why I'm hoping this to reset will fix that.
So let’s start with why the replacement ECU? if the bike runs and idles why did you swap? Just wondering if there are other factors at play here.
 

Pauleen2020

2016
CBR650F
Apr 26, 2020
Riding Since
2018
So let’s start with why the replacement ECU? if the bike runs and idles why did you swap? Just wondering if there are other factors at play here.
Long story, in a nutshell the front barrel shat a brick and I needed a new one. Soooo I didn't want to buy a full lock set from honda with blank keys to then get them programmed as that'll cost a kidney, plus extra to get the bike to honda dealership via can or trailer etc

So I got a second hand but correct set of locks and key but doesn't have tank lock which is fine. A lock set with its ECU is an easier way to satisfy the immobilizer for the new lock. Rather than bodging a new key barrel with an old keys chip.

So I've accepted the fact I'll have a key for the front barrel which should start the bike but have another set of keys for the tank and possibly the rear seat.

So currently I can confirm the new ECU with new key works/runs the bike electrically mostly fine, no errors (dtc) or anything. But the only issue it has is it idles at 3k until warm and slowly comes down to 2ish k, like it's doing what it's supposed to but at a higher range. I believe it's not the bike as when I plug the old ECU back in, no other changes as I can take it out without unplugging anything else, and use the old key to satisfy the old ECU but use the new key with the new barrel separately, it runs absolutely perfect idles where it should.

It does have a power commander but I've zeroed out the map table (1 of them) so it has no effect on the bike.

Other information of interest:
It has an O2 sensor delete
I have investigated the IACV and when I unplug it before starting the bike with the new ECU, it idles like just above normal idle, with no fluctuation in idle speed according to temperature. When plugged back on it idles high again.
I've tried to open the throttle to 100-0 multiple times in multiple conditions in the hope the ECU may recognise a possible new throttle position.
No the throttle cable is not the issue due to two pieces of evidence, the old ECU doesn't have this issue and I can audibly hear each throttle stop at 0 and 100% from the center of the bike not the handlebars.

Hope I've layed out the information clearly and comprehensibly. Thanks on advance for reading and helping
 

miweber929

2014
CBR650F
650 Alumnus
Staff
Feb 13, 2015
Woodbury, MN
Riding Since
1975
Long story, in a nutshell the front barrel shat a brick and I needed a new one. Soooo I didn't want to buy a full lock set from honda with blank keys to then get them programmed as that'll cost a kidney, plus extra to get the bike to honda dealership via can or trailer etc

So I got a second hand but correct set of locks and key but doesn't have tank lock which is fine. A lock set with its ECU is an easier way to satisfy the immobilizer for the new lock. Rather than bodging a new key barrel with an old keys chip.

So I've accepted the fact I'll have a key for the front barrel which should start the bike but have another set of keys for the tank and possibly the rear seat.

So currently I can confirm the new ECU with new key works/runs the bike electrically mostly fine, no errors (dtc) or anything. But the only issue it has is it idles at 3k until warm and slowly comes down to 2ish k, like it's doing what it's supposed to but at a higher range. I believe it's not the bike as when I plug the old ECU back in, no other changes as I can take it out without unplugging anything else, and use the old key to satisfy the old ECU but use the new key with the new barrel separately, it runs absolutely perfect idles where it should.

It does have a power commander but I've zeroed out the map table (1 of them) so it has no effect on the bike.

Other information of interest:
It has an O2 sensor delete
I have investigated the IACV and when I unplug it before starting the bike with the new ECU, it idles like just above normal idle, with no fluctuation in idle speed according to temperature. When plugged back on it idles high again.
I've tried to open the throttle to 100-0 multiple times in multiple conditions in the hope the ECU may recognise a possible new throttle position.
No the throttle cable is not the issue due to two pieces of evidence, the old ECU doesn't have this issue and I can audibly hear each throttle stop at 0 and 100% from the center of the bike not the handlebars.

Hope I've layed out the information clearly and comprehensibly. Thanks on advance for reading and helping
That helps a lot. It sounds like the IAC valve is out of calibration as well as TPS, at least as the far as the new ECU is concerned. Maybe check the procedures in the service manual (there is a link in the resources section to download it) to recalibrate them after replacement? Or see how expensive a new IACV is and simply replace that as a possibility.

Have you taken it for a ride at all? How many miles on it since the swap? I’m also wondering if a couple long rides and some running time might be enough to reset the parameters.

So here is what I would suggest: I know this is not ideal, but if you’ve exhausted everything above I’d be looking at an hour in the shop to have them run a diagnostics and maybe mate the ECU to the VIN and reset everything. I know in “older” FI Yamahas you can get into the service mode via a series of button presses and do some recalibrations and older Triumphs have a software called TuneECU that gets you into the system where you can do all sorts of fun stuff (like even remapping) but Honda has that stuff locked down pretty well. There also is a weird “procedure” in TuneECU for Triumphs where you let the bike idle for like 15 minutes without touching the throttle that is supposed to reset the ECU back to factory specs. I’m not saying that would help here, just that there may be something a shop knows or can do to reset everything.

You could also make a call to someone who flashes ECUs and can do Hondas to see if they can maybe reset it for you.

I know that’s not a ton of help, but maybe it’ll trigger something.
 

Pauleen2020

2016
CBR650F
Apr 26, 2020
Riding Since
2018
Fixed, using the new ECU with the new key/lock . Took it to honda dealership to fix the idle issue and they just plugged in their special reader thingy and reset the ECU, and as soon as they fired it up it ran perfect how it should. 🤤😩
In fact a little better as it's freshly looking at the bike how it is now and is working with it perfect.

I spoke to the mechanic about the service manual stating the tp reset procedure but he says yeah they don't work he spoke to the higher ups about and they said basically that doesn't work for my bike. Does for other mopeds and that but not these bikes 🤦

Thanks miweber929 for your help 🙏🙏 and hope this helps others.
 

miweber929

2014
CBR650F
650 Alumnus
Staff
Feb 13, 2015
Woodbury, MN
Riding Since
1975
Fixed, using the new ECU with the new key/lock . Took it to honda dealership to fix the idle issue and they just plugged in their special reader thingy and reset the ECU, and as soon as they fired it up it ran perfect how it should. 🤤😩
In fact a little better as it's freshly looking at the bike how it is now and is working with it perfect.

I spoke to the mechanic about the service manual stating the tp reset procedure but he says yeah they don't work he spoke to the higher ups about and they said basically that doesn't work for my bike. Does for other mopeds and that but not these bikes 🤦

Thanks miweber929 for your help 🙏🙏 and hope this helps others.
Great news!!!!
 
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