CBR650F Cluster shutting off when starter switch is pressed

[KidCBR]

Bike wont start. The problem had been developing for a couple weeks I believe. I tightened the battery terminal and it seemed to fix the issue but I checked it again and its tight. However the issue has returned. My cluster light began flickering and I could hear the engine dying and restarting with the flicker. Definitely electrical but I dont know where to start exactly. Havent made any major changes/adjustments in months.

 

[MDM650R]

First thing you can try, just test your battery. Check the voltage, then check the amps whilst the bike is trying to start.

If you tightened your battery terminal and it temporarily fixed, chances are its something to do with your battery. Batteries are relatively cheap, and easy to replace. 100% that would be the first place I would start.

Batteries die over time, it's fairly normal.

 

[KidCBR]

First thing you can try, just test your battery. Check the voltage, then check the amps whilst the bike is trying to start.

If you tightened your battery terminal and it temporarily fixed, chances are its something to do with your battery. Batteries are relatively cheap, and easy to replace. 100% that would be the first place I would start.

Batteries die over time, it's fairly normal.

Batttery is like 3 months old... its definitely some kind of short or something. The bike doesnt even try to start. When I turn the key the cluster doesnt come on at all. I did see the headlight come on very dim after a delay and slowly die. I have been noticing a kind of loud pop every time I press the starter ever since I replaced the battery. The issue began as the whole cluster and lights would shut off when I hit the starter. You can hear what sounds like some sort of short or static when that happens too.

 

[KidCBR]

Definitely some sort of short I cant find because I bumped the bike and it lit up and then started fine. Maybe something loose?

 

[bishop]

Definitely some sort of short I cant find because I bumped the bike and it lit up and then started fine. Maybe something loose?

Battery sounds like it's failing. A multi meter will confirm it.

 

[MDM650R]

Once the bike is running, the battery doesnt matter too much. The bike makes its own power.
Even though you bump started it and it ran, it could still easily be the battery.
Dim lights while cranking, also a sign of bad battery.

Honestly, your best bet is to test the voltage of the battery after the bike has been standing doing nothing for a while. It should read somewhere around 12.5V~12.9V. Any less than that and you'll be really struggling.

You can also check for a parasitic draw, this is very easy with a multi-meter.

-Turn the bike off
-Disconnect the negative terminal
-Get your multimeter and set it to read Amps (A), nice and low (probably 100mA - 200mA)
-Connect one side of your multi-meter to the negative battery post, and the other side to the negative battery wire terminal
-Read results

If you get any kind of reading, the chances are you have a parasitic draw. This can kill batteries overtime (yes, even 3 months) as the battery never really gets to rest.
My tutorial isn't the best though, maybe google 'Parasitic Drain'

could also be a bad ground somewhere.

Is the battery 3 months old (fitted) to your bike? or is the bike 3 months old?
My old man's CB1000R is struggling with battery issues as its a 2018 build, but was sold brand new in 2020 - So the bike/battery has just sat doing nothing in the factory for 2 years. He has had the bike for 7 months, put 1500kms on it, and it already needs another battery.

 

[MDM650R]

I have been noticing a kind of loud pop every time I press the starter ever since I replaced the battery. The issue began as the whole cluster and lights would shut off when I hit the starter. You can hear what sounds like some sort of short or static when that happens too.

The Pop could even be bad spark, fuel pump loads the cylinders with fuel, bike doesn't spark the fuel, until eventually there's too much fuel - Bike sparks and then 'Pop!'

I don't know about 650F, but isn't lights/dash turning off when you hit the starter very normal? pretty sure my bike does that too.

Hope you find a resolution 😁

 

[KidCBR]

Once the bike is running, the battery doesnt matter too much. The bike makes its own power.
Even though you bump started it and it ran, it could still easily be the battery.
Dim lights while cranking, also a sign of bad battery.

Honestly, your best bet is to test the voltage of the battery after the bike has been standing doing nothing for a while. It should read somewhere around 12.5V~12.9V. Any less than that and you'll be really struggling.

You can also check for a parasitic draw, this is very easy with a multi-meter.

-Turn the bike off
-Disconnect the negative terminal
-Get your multimeter and set it to read Amps (A), nice and low (probably 100mA - 200mA)
-Connect one side of your multi-meter to the negative battery post, and the other side to the negative battery wire terminal
-Read results

If you get any kind of reading, the chances are you have a parasitic draw. This can kill batteries overtime (yes, even 3 months) as the battery never really gets to rest.
My tutorial isn't the best though, maybe google 'Parasitic Drain'

could also be a bad ground somewhere.

Is the battery 3 months old (fitted) to your bike? or is the bike 3 months old?
My old man's CB1000R is struggling with battery issues as its a 2018 build, but was sold brand new in 2020 - So the bike/battery has just sat doing nothing in the factory for 2 years. He has had the bike for 7 months, put 1500kms on it, and it already needs another battery.

Battery literally purchased 3 months ago. I'll have a look at what you suggested. I'm no master mechanic but I have done a lot of my own work on all 7 of my bikes. Never been great with electrical issues. I am not entirely sure I believe its a battery this new because when I bumped the bike everything just came right on. seems like something loose or shorted... but I will do as you have instructed.

 

[KidCBR]

The Pop could even be bad spark, fuel pump loads the cylinders with fuel, bike doesn't spark the fuel, until eventually there's too much fuel - Bike sparks and then 'Pop!'

I don't know about 650F, but isn't lights/dash turning off when you hit the starter very normal? pretty sure my bike does that too.

Hope you find a resolution 😁

The pop is coming from under the seat. seems to be at the starter relay. At least I believe thats what the device is. The lights and dash turn off COMPLETELY and dont come back on. As though I just disconnected the battery. Not dim but DEAD. Dimming usually happens normally yes. This isnt that. Press the starter and everything dies.

 

[MDM650R]

Hmmm that's interesting then.
I don't know about CBR's in particular, but I believe starter relay issues are fairly common, and also easy to replace.

Now this isn't expert advice, but if you can find the relay, then give it a few good taps/knocks (smack that bastard), and spray some electrical contact cleaner in there. If you do this, and the issue gets a bit better, then chances are you've found your problem.

 

[KidCBR]

I think its the stator -.-

 

[Brammers]

There was a relay recall on the 650F early on - not sure if MY 2016 bikes were affected. Worth checking/replacing anyway.

The relay is under the rubber boot by the red diagnostic connector (it often has a green top) and is spotted by the 30A fuse on it.

Regardless of the battery only being 3 months old, get it tested or replaced to remove it as a factor. It could be faulty or fried by another issue on the bike (bad reg-rec for example).

When the bike it running, do you get ~14.4V across the battery terminals? That will tell you if the stator is bad.

There's a lot of good info given so far on the thread. The problem need to be worked through. Don't discount a dud battery though - you're missing a large piece of the puzzle.

J

 

[miweber929]

I think its the stator -.-

The stator would cause charging issues once running and not the starting issues you describe provided you gave a good battery.

@Brammers, @MDM650R and @bishop have all given you good advice and the same advice to start: get the battery tested. I agree, that’s your first step.

Your first post said “haven’t made any major changes/adjustments in months” but what exactly have you done in the recent time and what mods have you done to your bike overall?

 

[KidCBR]

low profile blinkers. New battery. the blinkers arent the same type of connector as the stock ones. They fit the bike but they are missing a third wire that the stock ones had(not sure what thaats for). Also.... The bike plain old died on the freeway on me yesterday morning. Cluster starts flickering as the bike sputters. My old ninja 250 did this when the battery cables were loose. Thats why I figured it was a battery connection. Apparently a lot of differences between 07 and 16. A dying battery would produce SOME kind of dim headlight when the key is turned. This is just a DEAD bike totally. Perhaps I would hear my fuel rails being primed at a different tone? And if a battery dies during a ride... would that happen? Wouldnt the charging system keep it alive until I shut off the bike? I was putting along and it just flickered.... cluster went nuts as this happened. then DEAD. Had to pull in the clutch and coast to the shoulder. Open to any suggestions. On a side note... what the hell has happened to Honda? This is a 2016!!! My 1988 hurricane had nearly 200,000 miles on it and It was running the day I sold it! They used to be built for war...

 

[Brammers]

First off, the battery is only there to juice the bike until the engine is cranked and fires. Once it's spinning the alternator will provide power and you could, if you want, remove the battery.

Modern bikes are more sensitive to low power and the 650 more so than most.

My advice hasn't changed.

J

 

[KidCBR]

First off, the battery is only there to juice the bike until the engine is cranked and fires. Once it's spinning the alternator will provide power and you could, if you want, remove the battery.

Modern bikes are more sensitive to low power and the 650 more so than most.

My advice hasn't changed.

J

Will do. I'll have some tinkering to do a bit later.

 

[miweber929]

First off, the battery is only there to juice the bike until the engine is cranked and fires. Once it's spinning the alternator will provide power and you could, if you want, remove the battery.

I disagree: The bike runs a stator, not an alternator, that doesn't provide enough power to run the bike on its own. They are similar but not exactly the same thing as an alternator; a car, however, will run without the battery. The battery is an integral part of the circuit and needs to be in and working for the bike to run. You can try it, disconnect the negative cable and the bike will die.

If you have a dead battery, the bike will charge it, however if you have a bad battery, like a bad cell or something that KILLS the battery, it won't run even if jump started once the "good" battery is removed.

Modern bikes are more sensitive to low power and the 650 more so than most.

My advice hasn't changed.

I agree with this, though. Classic symptoms of a bad cell in the battery.

 

[miweber929]

low profile blinkers. New battery. the blinkers arent the same type of connector as the stock ones. They fit the bike but they are missing a third wire that the stock ones had(not sure what thaats for). Also.... The bike plain old died on the freeway on me yesterday morning. Cluster starts flickering as the bike sputters. My old ninja 250 did this when the battery cables were loose. Thats why I figured it was a battery connection. Apparently a lot of differences between 07 and 16. A dying battery would produce SOME kind of dim headlight when the key is turned. This is just a DEAD bike totally. Perhaps I would hear my fuel rails being primed at a different tone? And if a battery dies during a ride... would that happen? Wouldnt the charging system keep it alive until I shut off the bike? I was putting along and it just flickered.... cluster went nuts as this happened. then DEAD. Had to pull in the clutch and coast to the shoulder. Open to any suggestions.

The 3rd wire is for the running lights, most blinkers do not have that. The other thing to know is this bike is a FI system and will not start if the battery voltage os too low to run all of its electronics. The headlight won't run on if the bike doesn't think it has enough power either.

What did you do to splice the blinkers in?

So it still starts with a dead cluster? Just trying to figure out what you have written above.........

On a side note... what the hell has happened to Honda? This is a 2016!!! My 1988 hurricane had nearly 200,000 miles on it and It was running the day I sold it! They used to be built for war...

They still are. You have something acting up, shorting out or not making a good connection. Doesn't;t matter is it's 2 days old, 2 months old, 20 years old, things do fail, you just need to fix them.

 

[KidCBR]

I disagree: The bike runs a stator, not an alternator, that doesn't provide enough power to run the bike on its own. They are similar but not exactly the same thing as an alternator; a car, however, will run without the battery. The battery is an integral part of the circuit and needs to be in and working for the bike to run. You can try it, disconnect the negative cable and the bike will die.

If you have a dead battery, the bike will charge it, however if you have a bad battery, like a bad cell or something that KILLS the battery, it won't run even if jump started once the "good" battery is removed.



I agree with this, though. Classic symptoms of a bad cell in the battery.

I thought so. My 250 wont run without a battery. Loose cable = sputtering engine. Didnt wanna sound like a dick. I'm gonna rule out this battery issue in a couple hours. Got 2 more bikes to stick it on and see. I really feel somethin else is going on here. I will test it with a meter as well

 

[KidCBR]

The 3rd wire is for the running lights, most blinkers do not have that. The other thing to know is this bike is a FI system and will not start if the battery voltage os too low to run all of its electronics. The headlight won't run on if the bike doesn't think it has enough power either.

What did you do to splice the blinkers in?

So it still starts with a dead cluster? Just trying to figure out what you have written above.........



They still are. You have something acting up, shorting out or not making a good connection. Doesn't;t matter is it's 2 days old, 2 months old, 20 years old, things do fail, you just need to fix them.

It has the same connector its just missing the 3rd wire. I didnt have to splice anything. And no if the cluster isnt lit the bike wont start. I dont even get the dead battery "tick tick tick" Press the starter and absolutely nothing. While running on the freeway when the cluster blinked the engine died. When the cluster went off so did the bike. Even the clock seems to have intermittent operation on the cluster.