CBR650F ABS flashing

[ICantRide]

Ridding cbr650f 2015
stock apart from akro full system
aftermarket led front light

Good morning all, first time posting so hopefully ive done this right.

I have ridden to work this morning its about 30 minutes and with 5 to go my abs light has come on and is flashing at me. I have got to work (still ridding with it on I know its a bad idea sorry) the bike seemed completely fine while ridding I went carefully but on a nice open straight I gave the bike a nice hard brake just to test them. Everything seemed normal and working correctly. I got to work and gave the bike a quick check over it seemed all fine.

Flashes at a steady rate of around 0.5 - 1 second on and off constantly.

Clues;
-Seemed a bit hot.
-Couldnt tell if any funny smells I thought it just smelled a bit hot but nothing stood out
-no leaks
-nothing dripping
-no visible oil leak
-no fluid on the bike or ground
-starts like normal


Many thanks for any help.

 

[miweber929]

So the flashing light is telling you that there is an error in your ABS system and the blinking rate is telling you what it is thats wrong.

The bike will ride normally and work normally, it just won’t have ABS.

Have you done ANYTHING recently to the bike that may cause an issue? Washed it, new levers, replaced tires, lubed the chain, whatever. Anything, even if you think it’s not important.

You can “read” what the blink rate is and look up the code in service manual to see what may be the issue (most common is a damaged or moved wheel sensor) or take it to a dealer. Your call at this point.

 

[ICantRide]

Many thanks for the quick reply, I am probably being incredibly stupid but I looked up the manual as I don't have it with me currently and on Page 85 it states about the light coming on, however just says it a problem not any more information. I didn't notice any other pages about more information or about codes. I am at work currently and can't look to in depth. Have I just been a moron and missed the information ?

Nothing has changed but if we are going to fine details. The poor bike is filthy and needs a wash, the rear tyre is in desperate need of replacing its completely squared off. It was meant to be stored away for winter and to receive some TLC but I couldnt resist a crisp sunshine winter day. Apart from that shes not been touched since 3 months ago apart from general cleaning and lubing the chain. I will be honest and shame myself in saying I've not checked the tire pressures in that time due to my gauge braking. The last thing I would say is the pads need replacing soonish.

Cheers.

 

[miweber929]

Many thanks for the quick reply, I am probably being incredibly stupid but I looked up the manual as I don't have it with me currently and on Page 85 it states about the light coming on, however just says it a problem not any more information. I didn't notice any other pages about more information or about codes. I am at work currently and can't look to in depth. Have I just been a moron and missed the information ?

Nothing has changed but if we are going to fine details. The poor bike is filthy and needs a wash, the rear tyre is in desperate need of replacing its completely squared off. It was meant to be stored away for winter and to receive some TLC but I couldnt resist a crisp sunshine winter day. Apart from that shes not been touched since 3 months ago apart from general cleaning and lubing the chain. I will be honest and shame myself in saying I've not checked the tire pressures in that time due to my gauge braking. The last thing I would say is the pads need replacing soonish.

Cheers.

Thanks for the info.

So I’m talking service manual, not owners manual. Buy one or search this forum for a downloadable one, the codes should be in there. Sorry, I no longer have a Honda or the manual or I’d look into it.

I’d say the tires and pads “shouldn’t” be an issue, but what may be if if the wheel sensor or ring is covered with grit, grime, chain lube, whatever. You may want to try to clean it up before storage, the longer the crap is left the harder it will be to get off.

I’d say start there, and get back to us. Once we know what the code is, we can help further.

 

[baugustine]

I’ll take the baton from @miweber929

 

[ICantRide]

Okay cheers found manual online and gone through all the instructions. used this link found on forums "https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5xWn7TEGuYTd2ZEVTNLYnh6M28"I believe from what I have read the manual is referring to the user plugging in a device ? This part I am a little confused about; "Connect the MCS to the DLC (page 19-5)." dont know what a MCS is. It then goes on to say if you dont have the MCS short it out with a special tool. I know you can do it with a paper clip however I don't know exactly how to do this.

The reason to do all this is the codes in the manual refer to doing these steps to get the DTC reading not just from the flash rate thats currently on the bike.

I will have a look tonight if the tool is just part of the bike but I can't say ive ever seen / have one if its something special to buy.

Many thanks really appreciate the help. Sorry im a dumb a***.

 

[baugustine]

Before we dig in further, do some basic checks of the harness/connectors on the sensors. This amateur does a good job of isolating the front and rear to narrow down his possible causes

 

[baugustine]

I @ICantRide to manually retrieve DTCs, run a jumper wire between the SCS wire (the brown one) and the ground (Green). Key on, it will flash DTCs on the cluster. SCS is Honda-speak for Service Check Signal. The OE tool (070PZ-ZY30100) may have a resistor value in it, so if you can’t use a normal jumper wire then get the SCS jumper tool from the dealer or the interweb.

 

[cammywham]

There's a known issue with this bike (there was a maintenance bulletin but no recall for it) with an engine speed sensor inside the case that can malfunction when it gets too dirty from accumulated magnetic debris. First symptom is that it kicks off the ABS a few minutes into riding (ABS light flashing). If you keep riding and then have other issues (like sudden loss of power) 30 minutes later, that might be your issue. Just putting this here in case you end up having the same issue. Took me a while to get it diagnosed!

 

[ICantRide]

"So in the end I took it to a friend / repair shop. This was because after using the paperclip trick all I had to go off was "rear wheel sensor error" okay fair enough at least its a place to check.

a. gap looked fine, okay not that.
b. sensor seemed to work

hmmm okay not sure now better take it to my friend ^. "

It turned out my bearing in my wheel had completely destroyed itself. I should of known from the handling but due to the tire being completely squared off I just though the handling was down to that. We got it onto a padock stand spun the wheel and instantly saw it wobbling.

New bearings new pads new tire back to running on cloud nine.

Cheers for the help guys

 

[Katie]

"So in the end I took it to a friend / repair shop. This was because after using the paperclip trick all I had to go off was "rear wheel sensor error" okay fair enough at least its a place to check.

a. gap looked fine, okay not that.
b. sensor seemed to work

hmmm okay not sure now better take it to my friend ^. "

It turned out my bearing in my wheel had completely destroyed itself. I should of known from the handling but due to the tire being completely squared off I just though the handling was down to that. We got it onto a padock stand spun the wheel and instantly saw it wobbling.

New bearings new pads new tire back to running on cloud nine.

Cheers for the help guys

Sorry to resurrect a thread but curious what mileage you had on the bike at the time? Mine was waiting to go in for its 24k service when the rear wheel bearings failed. Probably took a few days to go but I'd just put a new top box on and, as its been so windy, I thought that was the problem! The bearings packed up properly on the way to work so it made for a fun 50 mile trip home in the dark...

 

[v4fun]

Good afternoon,

After changing the brake fluids and replacing the seals after 78000km ( not impressed with the quality)
I have replaced the brake fluid, and after starting the bike shows the abs light fault. It's blipping like a fast indicator...
I haven t touched the wheels or anything related ... chain,.
I have cleaned the abs sensor to try to solve the problem, no results
Blipping fast...

Any idea?

(Where can I upload the video?)

 

[miweber929]

Good afternoon,

After changing the brake fluids and replacing the seals after 78000km ( not impressed with the quality)
I have replaced the brake fluid, and after starting the bike shows the abs light fault. It's blipping like a fast indicator...
I haven t touched the wheels or anything related ... chain,.
I have cleaned the abs sensor to try to solve the problem, no results
Blipping fast...

Any idea?

(Where can I upload the video?)

To answer the video question, upload it to something like YouTube or other hosting site and link it here.

As far as the ABS goes, they are extremely sensitive to the distance from the sensors so they need to be set in the proper position. It’s pretty easy to see them and look at where they should be, check to be sure they are a few mm away from the sensor ring, square to the surface to see if one or the other got bumped.

I have to ask: have you ridden the bike or just started it? The ABS system light flashes on startup until you ride it a few meters and the system calibrates itself. Just want to be sure this isn’t a non-issue.

 

[v4fun]

Once I started the bike the light starts flashing and never stopm even while riding. I m going to flush again the brake liquid and check again, cos It seems strange without touching the ABS sensor wheel , the wheel etc this happened.


https://themotorguy.com/brake-and-abs-light-on-after-replacing-pads-and-rotors-causes-and-fixes/ (Was reading that will imspect everything)

What You Need to Know​

• Dislodged or damaged ABS sensors, incorrect sensor installation, or mixed-up connectors can trigger the ABS light after replacing pads and rotors.
• Air bubbles in the brake system, often introduced during rotor replacement, can cause the ABS light to come on and require bleeding and air removal.
• Failure to follow the correct axle nut tightening procedure can lead to wheel bearing damage, safety risks, and ABS light activation.
• Issues with brake fluid management, such as low levels or leaks, can trigger the ABS light and require prompt attention to prevent accidents.
• Sensor inspection and maintenance are crucial to prevent ABS light activation, and regular cleaning and replacement of faulty sensors or wires can help resolve issues.

 

[v4fun]

Been to Honda today, they told me there is air in the ABS Unit so found this. (Click on the right of your mouse to get an english version)

Purge liquide de frein moto avec ABS, avant et arrière, en tutoriel

En image, découvrez comment changer le liquide de frein avant et arrière d'une moto avec ABS ! Suivez la purge du liquide de frein moto.

www.onemonthoneride.com

 

[v4fun]

So on the Yamaha you need to connect the black cable to the black from the OBD CONNECTOR. The colors are different on the cbr does anyone knows which ones need to be connected as I don t want to make a mess. Thx​

• Relier le fil noir au bleu

​

La méthode électronique du filou pour activer la pompe ABS​

• Ici, se munir d’un fil électrique de quelques centimètres avec les extrémités dénudées (câble de pontage)
• Retirer la selle et localiser un fil avec une extrémité libre dotée de 4 entrées protégées par un capuchon, et retirer ce dernier
• Relier le fil noir au bleu avec votre câble de pontage
• • Positionner le coupe circuit sur OFF
  • Tourner la clé dans le barillet pour démarrer la moto
  • Ici, le voyant ABS devrait clignoter ; si ce n’est pas le cas, le pontage n’est pas fait correctement
  • Enfoncer le bouton de démarrage pendant 4 secondes environ, tout en maintenant le levier de frein avant et la pédale de frein arrière « enfoncés »
  • La pompe ABS devrait s’activer et provoquer des pulsations dans le levier de frein avant puis dans la pédale de frein arrière, plusieurs fois
  • Répéter l’opération une 2ème fois pour être sûr que le liquide ait bien circulé
  • Débrancher le câble de pontage et replacer tout comme il faut !

Voilà, deux méthodes pour activer la pompe ABS sur la Yamaha Super Ténéré XT1200Z. Il ne vous reste plus qu’à faire la purge des freins avant et arrière à nouveau pour finaliser l’opération. Vous pouvez ensuite rouler « sur vos deux oreilles », avec du liquide de frein tout neuf, et une pompe ABS fiable. Chose promise, chose due, la vidéo détaillée de la purge c’est par ici.
So

 

[Brammers]

English is preferred on this forum, thanks.

Admin

 

[v4fun]

As I don t have the right color for the cables to be connected I haven t translated it as I dont want to mess up as mentionned before. That s why I didn t post a translation of the article...
so there a part of it

Connect the black wire to the blue

THose colors are for Yamaha not Honda do not do it as you could mess it up with the wrong cables

The trickster's electronic method for activating the ABS pump
Here, bring an electric wire a few centimeters long with the ends stripped (bridging cable)
Remove the saddle and locate a wire with a free end with 4 entries protected by a cap, and remove the cap
Connect the black wire to the blue with your jumper cable
Position the circuit breaker to OFF
Turn the key in the cylinder to start the motorcycle
Here the ABS light should flash; if this is not the case, the bypass is not done correctly
Press the start button for approximately 4 seconds, while holding the front brake lever and rear brake pedal “down”
The ABS pump should activate and pulse the front brake lever and then the rear brake pedal several times.
Repeat the operation a second time to be sure that the liquid has circulated well
Disconnect the jumper cable and replace everything correctly!
There you have it, two methods to activate the ABS pump on the Yamaha Super Ténéré XT1200Z. All you have to do is bleed the front and rear brakes again to finalize the operation. You can then drive "on your two ears", with brand new brake fluid, and a reliable ABS pump.

 

[v4fun]

that s for a cbr 250.... still searching for the cbr650

 

[miweber929]

The CB and CBR do not have a “manual” way to activate the ABS pump and Yamaha has done away with that trick as well in anything remotely new. You have to have the dealer -style software to activate it.

The ABS system, at least most I am familiar with, are fairly sealed and don’t leak fluid when not in use so just by cleaning and replacing seals in a caliper you shouldn’t have introduced air into the system. Older basic ABS systems are like this. If this system is NOT sealed, and you did introduce air, you should be able to then bleed the air out same as it got in. Have you tried a reverse bleed where to pump fluid from the caliper up to the reservoir? Sometimes that dislodges the pocket if it’s truly air.

At this point you may have to leave it with a shop to do a deeper scan into exactly what the error is and have them fix it. A brake bleed shouldn’t be more than an hours labor so shouldn’t be overly expensive, if what they say is true.