- May 30, 2014
I fancied upgrading the brake lines for a few reasons:
1) Had a bonus from work burning a hole in my pocket
2) They look better than stock
3) I haven't taken the brake system apart yet - and I wanted get in there!
4) They might improve performance, but I doubt I'll notice much (I don't race - @bobstrax !)
It's been an interesting journey.
First, HEL botched the front left caliper line (made it 20mm too long). Their support guy was initially a dick "you're holding the wrong line there" he said, assuming I had the rear master line confused. A quick photo of the kit sorted his attitude out and he apologised (and admitted he'd read the microfiche wrong). Next up (and I found this out at the last minute during fitting) they supplied a non-threaded block for the front line. I made a workaround - details later.
Decided to do the rears first because they are easier to get to and I needed to "get my eye in".
So, onwards...
The rears. No dramas here other than the ABS lines are in the most awkward place - you find yourself doing quarter turns using a 10mm spanner. Time consuming but easy enough. Go steady, take your time.
Putting the new hoses in requires some bad language as you fight to align everything and the hoses. It'll go in though.
The rubber spacers supplied on the main line aren't big enough for the OEM clips. I created some padding using an old inner tube cut into strips and wrapped around. This worked a treat.
The fronts. <insert bad language here!>
Master cylinder line to ABS unit. Honda, really!??! Why did you terminate the host there?
Yes, that's above the rocker cover - so off goes the airbox! Working in there is also tight on space - patience is your friend!
To explain the nut in the photo. The OEM block connector is threaded. HEL shipped one that isn't. They WILL be shipping one that is (but they don't know that yet!), but I'll fit it at the next service when the plugs get changed.
If you're wondering, that is an M6x25mm stainless hex socket cap bolt and a M6 stainless nylock nut. The black plastic block connector isn't actually part of the brake line, so it's not a safety issue at all. You can slide them off the stainless line fitting underneath.
So with that little drama behind me, I move underneath...
Main line from ABS unit to left caliper (v2.0 line):
Which goes to here:
The right caliper line joins in the party at this point and heads over here...
I left the master cylinder until last but it's straightforward:
The biggest annoyance is that none of the OEM clips are usable any more due to the SS lines being thinner. Cable (zip) ties to the rescue! Highlighted on my pic "ABS line to left caliper".
I've bled the system. I used a home-brew vacuum system to draw oil through first, then bled in the traditional way thereafter. Other than it taking a while, no issues to report.
No leaks to report either!
So tomorrow the airbox etc. can all be refitted after a run a little more brake fluid through, in case some trapped air has settled and can be flushed out.
Any questions, please ask them soon, before I forget the answers
J
1) Had a bonus from work burning a hole in my pocket
2) They look better than stock
3) I haven't taken the brake system apart yet - and I wanted get in there!
4) They might improve performance, but I doubt I'll notice much (I don't race - @bobstrax !)
It's been an interesting journey.
First, HEL botched the front left caliper line (made it 20mm too long). Their support guy was initially a dick "you're holding the wrong line there" he said, assuming I had the rear master line confused. A quick photo of the kit sorted his attitude out and he apologised (and admitted he'd read the microfiche wrong). Next up (and I found this out at the last minute during fitting) they supplied a non-threaded block for the front line. I made a workaround - details later.
Decided to do the rears first because they are easier to get to and I needed to "get my eye in".
So, onwards...
The rears. No dramas here other than the ABS lines are in the most awkward place - you find yourself doing quarter turns using a 10mm spanner. Time consuming but easy enough. Go steady, take your time.
Putting the new hoses in requires some bad language as you fight to align everything and the hoses. It'll go in though.
The rubber spacers supplied on the main line aren't big enough for the OEM clips. I created some padding using an old inner tube cut into strips and wrapped around. This worked a treat.
The fronts. <insert bad language here!>
Master cylinder line to ABS unit. Honda, really!??! Why did you terminate the host there?
Yes, that's above the rocker cover - so off goes the airbox! Working in there is also tight on space - patience is your friend!
To explain the nut in the photo. The OEM block connector is threaded. HEL shipped one that isn't. They WILL be shipping one that is (but they don't know that yet!), but I'll fit it at the next service when the plugs get changed.
If you're wondering, that is an M6x25mm stainless hex socket cap bolt and a M6 stainless nylock nut. The black plastic block connector isn't actually part of the brake line, so it's not a safety issue at all. You can slide them off the stainless line fitting underneath.
So with that little drama behind me, I move underneath...
Main line from ABS unit to left caliper (v2.0 line):
Which goes to here:
The right caliper line joins in the party at this point and heads over here...
I left the master cylinder until last but it's straightforward:
The biggest annoyance is that none of the OEM clips are usable any more due to the SS lines being thinner. Cable (zip) ties to the rescue! Highlighted on my pic "ABS line to left caliper".
I've bled the system. I used a home-brew vacuum system to draw oil through first, then bled in the traditional way thereafter. Other than it taking a while, no issues to report.
No leaks to report either!
So tomorrow the airbox etc. can all be refitted after a run a little more brake fluid through, in case some trapped air has settled and can be flushed out.
Any questions, please ask them soon, before I forget the answers
J
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