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All 650's HEL Stainless Steel Braided Lines (DIY Installation) - REAR LINES

rustyeyed

2016
CBR650F ABS
Oct 14, 2015
United Kingdom
REAR BRAKE LINES:

HEL Rear Lines were installed and brake calipers and pads serviced. (obvious steps not shown)

DIFFICULTY: Intermediate

PATIENCE REQUIREMENT: Expert
INVENTORY:
Rachet
8mm spanner
8mm socket
10mm spanner
12mm socket
Torque wrench
HEL rear brake lines
HEL bolt (each bolt comes with 2 copper crush washers)

From top to bottom, in pucture:

- Front Fork
- Master Cylinder to ABS modulator block
- Rear Brake to ABS modulator
- ABS modulator to rear brake valve (near rider foot plate)

In the box.jpg

STEP1 - Bleed brakes - not shown here, EUROPAT VIZIBLEED brake and clutch bleeder used (google it!), you can anything you feel fit, I have not shown the step here.

Use a cloth on paintwork at all times, rinse with water if you have a leak or spill while bleeding.

bleed.jpg

STEP 2: Remove the reservoir, 8mm bolt unscrewed from bracket and it comes off. (refer service manual if you are in doubt)

remove reservoir.jpg

STEP 3: My fingers point to 2 rear lines that run into the modulator this sits near the right hand side of the rear suspension.

These are two idividual blocks which are held together using a screw. It is also held to the frame with a bracket.
rear block close up.jpg


Close up shot of the ABS modulator tie in with rear brakes,

Use 10mm spanner to undo the 'nut screw' head from the block.

8mm socket to remove the entire bracket for easy of access

There is bolt hidden under the wire clip on the left wich holds both the blocks together. (use 8mm spanner or socket)

rear block.jpg

I had issue with the block holding screw so drilled it out and replaced with another screw.. I think its M6 x16

stuck bolt.jpg

STEP 4: Connect new new blocks connectors to ABS modulator steel lines.

Brackets were not installed at this stage.

TIP: this is a hard to work space, so slowly bend the lines outwards towards you. makes aligning the thread heads easy.

new block.jpg
 

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rustyeyed

2016
CBR650F ABS
Oct 14, 2015
United Kingdom
STEP 5: reassemble the brackets using the 'holding bolt' (silver head to the left)

Slowly bent the brake line back towards its original position until the bracket aligns where the bracket bolts to the frame.


new block bracket.jpg

COMPLETED:

'Block holder bolt' (Silver bolt) head on the left is a replacement bolt I found in my tool kit so just reused.

Bracket is bolted (black bot head 8mm) back on the bike frame

TIP: use some copper grease when screwing the 'block holder bolt' as this is a very tight fit.


bloack installed.jpg

Clips and brackets put in place

Final 1.jpg

Rear line run from ABS modulator to rear brake caliper

Note; The lines are thin so they dont sit snug in the OEM line brackets but it's a decent fit. The lines are narrower than OEM.



final 2.jpg

Any questions do ask.
 

rustyeyed

2016
CBR650F ABS
Oct 14, 2015
United Kingdom
Wow. Excellent post and great info.

How much effort was drilling out the block holding screw? Did you have trouble getting all the bits out?

Thank you.

Only had issue with that block holding screw just drilled with a 5mm bit and used an easy out #3 and it came out clean. All other bits were pretty basic. Brammers @Brammers had no issue getting it out but I did.
 

rustyeyed

2016
CBR650F ABS
Oct 14, 2015
United Kingdom
Good to hear. Any time I have to drill out a fastener I immediately fill with dread.

Don't worry you may not have to do it but if you do it won't matter as it's not a critical bolt. The main bit is the bracket that the bolt sandwiches with the blocks so once the bolt is out everything breaks free.
 

Brammers

2014
CBR650F ABS
Staff
May 30, 2014
Hampshire, England
My process differs because my "block retaining screw" came out.

I left the brackets on the bike and just swapped the blocks out, meaning that I secured the blocks first, then loose fitted the banjo bolts and lines, then tightened the ABS lines and everything else up to torque afterwards.

J
 

Magdiel

CB650F ABS
Jul 6, 2017
Israel
Great work!
I am interested about the bleeding part.
I have bleed my breaks and it seems that the bleeding valve is "sweating" I have tighten the bleeding valve to 5.4 nm according to the manual. I have even tried tighten more, but it's still sweating (less than before). As any one run into this issue?
Thanks
 

rustyeyed

2016
CBR650F ABS
Oct 14, 2015
United Kingdom
Great work!
I am interested about the bleeding part.
I have bleed my breaks and it seems that the bleeding valve is "sweating" I have tighten the bleeding valve to 5.4 nm according to the manual. I have even tried tighten more, but it's still sweating (less than before). As any one run into this issue?
Thanks

Never had such issues.

I am not sure what "sweating" means. If it's leaking by any chance I think the seal (o-ring) might have fatigued and you would need to replace it with a new bleed nipple.
 

Magdiel

CB650F ABS
Jul 6, 2017
Israel
Never had such issues.

I am not sure what "sweating" means. If it's leaking by any chance I think the seal (o-ring) might have fatigued and you would need to replace it with a new bleed nipple.
Yes, I am referring to a very small leak.
there is no o-ring between the valve and the caliper, only the valve cup holder but it's not for sealing. Have you torqued it to 5.4 NM?
 

rustyeyed

2016
CBR650F ABS
Oct 14, 2015
United Kingdom
Yes, I am referring to a very small leak.
there is no o-ring between the valve and the caliper, only the valve cup holder but it's not for sealing. Have you torqued it to 5.4 NM?

Just replace the nipple, i have tightened to hand tight don't have a torque wrench for very low torques.
 

Magdiel

CB650F ABS
Jul 6, 2017
Israel
Just replace the nipple, i have tightened to hand tight don't have a torque wrench for very low torques.
I just wanted to add my 2 cents after doing some learning.
Some threads don’t seal very good after being opened for first time. I am not sure why but searching online and talking to some mates seems like this is a known issue.
Some people work around this by tightening the bleeding value to more then 5.4NM, the manual indicates 5.4NM or use some Teflon tape for sealing the top 2 or 3 threads.
I run in to this company that sells different valve that do not require to open the threads on the caliper for bleeding. A bit pricey but if you intend to bleed your breaks often like I do sound like a good investment and safe solution.

https://www.stahlbus-us.com/
 

rustyeyed

2016
CBR650F ABS
Oct 14, 2015
United Kingdom
I just wanted to add my 2 cents after doing some learning.
Some threads don’t seal very good after being opened for first time. I am not sure why but searching online and talking to some mates seems like this is a known issue.
Some people work around this by tightening the bleeding value to more then 5.4NM, the manual indicates 5.4NM or use some Teflon tape for sealing the top 2 or 3 threads.
I run in to this company that sells different valve that do not require to open the threads on the caliper for bleeding. A bit pricey but if you intend to bleed your breaks often like I do sound like a good investment and safe solution.

https://www.stahlbus-us.com/

Thanks for the info! I didn't have any issues with the bleed valve but if I do I make sure I refer this thread. Good find! :)
 

Daniel

2014
CB650F ABS
Feb 15, 2015
Is fitting to the front brake a similar process? You fit braided lines upto a modulator block? I would like to do this at some point and rear brake seems easier than I thought judging by your guide.

Great write up by the way 👍🏼
 

Daniel

2014
CB650F ABS
Feb 15, 2015
Thanks Brammers Brammers, does anyone know how much brake fluid is needed for both front and back? (option of 500ml or 1L to buy) And which one is the better out of Castrol, Putoline and EBC for buying some?
 

Daniel

2014
CB650F ABS
Feb 15, 2015
Brilliant 👍🏼 sportsbikeshop have emailed me a 10% off voucher so I'm bulk ordering some stuff I'll need in future while it's cheaper.
 

rustyeyed

2016
CBR650F ABS
Oct 14, 2015
United Kingdom
Is fitting to the front brake a similar process? You fit braided lines upto a modulator block? I would like to do this at some point and rear brake seems easier than I thought judging by your guide.

Great write up by the way 👍🏼

The fitting is the same in principle only connecting the damn blocks can be a proper pain!
 
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