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CB650R Frame slider mounted to engine fell off... Need help

NedimB

2020
CB650R ABS
Aug 1, 2021
Riding Since
2021
Hi guys,

First of all, motorcycle noob here so my knowledge is extremely limited and I would be very grateful for any help.

I bought my motorcycle at a dealer, and it already had these R&G frame-sliders installed, mounted to the engine basically.

Somehow while driving, one of them fell off. I still have the OEM bolt, however it does not fit since the holes are not aligned. I'm assuming this is because the engine has dropped lower on the side where the bolt is missing. The dealer / internet also says that I should absolutely not drive without this bolt...

I've a few questions:
- Does anyone know what bolt this is? The washer fell off so I'd have to buy a new one for that as well, and I can't seem to find what exactly this part / bolt is called ...
- How much torque does it need to be applied with?
- How can I actually fix this myself, since I am advised to not drive without this bolt?


Here are some pictures attached. The right side of the bike where the frame slider fell off, and the left side where it is still intact.

Thank you
 

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Bill_650R

2021
CB650R ABS
Oct 25, 2021
Riding Since
2010
Hello,

You should definitely not drive like this.
It is an M12x40mm with part number 90167-GHB-710.
Torque is 59Nm
 

quigonquinn

2019
CBR650R
Feb 17, 2020
unless you've driven thousands of KMs since you bought it, I'd be going back to the dealer and making a scene. its clear they either installed it wrong, or the previous owner installed it wrong, and the dealer didn't check it. it's their responsibility to do a complete check of the bike to be sure everything is put together right, and safe. this clearly was not done
 

NedimB

2020
CB650R ABS
Aug 1, 2021
Riding Since
2021
unless you've driven thousands of KMs since you bought it, I'd be going back to the dealer and making a scene. its clear they either installed it wrong, or the previous owner installed it wrong, and the dealer didn't check it. it's their responsibility to do a complete check of the bike to be sure everything is put together right, and safe. this clearly was not done
I've driven 1500 KM's since I bought it so you may be right. Any tips on getting them to not shrug me off?
 

quigonquinn

2019
CBR650R
Feb 17, 2020
I've driven 1500 KM's since I bought it so you may be right. Any tips on getting them to not shrug me off?
I have worked in customer service for a long time, so (despite my exaggeration in my last post) I always recommend going in there and being kind and asking nicely, but firm. A good company will own up to it without you having to throw a fit, and fix it for you. if they dont, then escalate to the manager or owner, or....not sure what the laws are over there regarding used vehicle purchases, but may be able to look into those. or contacting honda may work.
 

trippy

2019
CB650R ABS
May 2, 2021
Riding Since
3000
N @NedimB I recommend taking the bike to the Honda dealer. Ask them go over all the main screws/bolts, torque them to spec. and use a paint marker to indicate the correct position.
You should visually inspect them before every ride.
 

motorider

2019
CBR650R ABS
May 6, 2021
Riding Since
1986
Hi guys,

First of all, motorcycle noob here so my knowledge is extremely limited and I would be very grateful for any help.

I bought my motorcycle at a dealer, and it already had these R&G frame-sliders installed, mounted to the engine basically.

Somehow while driving, one of them fell off. I still have the OEM bolt, however it does not fit since the holes are not aligned. I'm assuming this is because the engine has dropped lower on the side where the bolt is missing. The dealer / internet also says that I should absolutely not drive without this bolt...

I've a few questions:
- Does anyone know what bolt this is? The washer fell off so I'd have to buy a new one for that as well, and I can't seem to find what exactly this part / bolt is called ...
- How much torque does it need to be applied with?
- How can I actually fix this myself, since I am advised to not drive without this bolt?


Here are some pictures attached. The right side of the bike where the frame slider fell off, and the left side where it is still intact.

Thank you

Here is a link to the part diagram, it's number 12 and the washer is number 16.
Use blue thread locker on the bolt and torque it to 59 Nm. Check the other side as well to make sure it's tightened to the correct torque.
 

Ohmz

2015
CBR650F ABS
Jan 18, 2019
I had this happen on my old CBR650F, the mount points seem pretty identical to the newer models. I recall it happening twice lol but dunno if that's just me.

I had a honda dealer fit the sliders, they sorted it free of charge and said they'd seen it before.

Having said that, a few years ago an uber knocked me over when I was at a standstill, pretty minor crash as they go but the slider acted like a punch and basically cracked the engine mounting arm AND the engine casing. Not had any sliders fitted to my 650R for that reason, last time I checked there wasn't really any alternatives to using the engine mount points. In a high speed slide they'd probably help, but could easily do more harm in slow speed topples. Either way having all that extra srtress on an engine mount point worries me now.

Maybe if I have any forward momentum the engine block on my 650F would have been fine but who knows.
 

kspjk

2021
CB650R ABS
Oct 31, 2021
Riding Since
2006
I’d definitely agree with getting the dealership to fix it. Try not to work on it yourself if the problem was caused by a part they installed, especially if you’ve got the warranty for the bike.

Disclaimer: what I’m about to say below is based on my experience of fitting the SW Motech Engine Guard (the cage looking one), and not based on any expert mechanical knowledge. I found this whole process very difficult as the holes needed to line up very precisely for the screws to go in completely square into the threads, otherwise I could cross thread the engine mounts. It took me 2 hours of struggle and failure on day 1, 3 evenings of thinking about how to go about it, and a further 2 hours to finally get it done.

If you wanted to fix this yourself, it would involve a lot of trial and error loosening a couple turns (but not removing) the two engine mount bolts on the left (front and rear of the cylinders), and the one that’s still in place on the right just rear of the cylinders. Then put the bike on a paddock stand to keep it upright, and lift the engine up and down slightly (just a few mm) using a pad stand (with a thick folded towel on it) against the flat bottom of the sump. As you move the engine up and down, put a round bar (I used the smooth handle end of my 3/8 ratchet) through that mount hole that’s missing the screw and then into the unthreaded portion (there’s about 1cm of the initial section that doesn’t have any threads) of the hole on the engine where the screw would go into. As you move the engine up and down, use that bar to leverage the engine into a better position so that the mounting hole lines up with the threads on the engine mount. Note that moving the handlebar left, centre and right makes a difference to the geometry when these screws are loose so find a handlebar position that works (do not turn the handlebar while the bike is on a rear paddock stand coz it could topple the bike over). Always try to have a second person help you when using the paddock stand.

FYI the workshop manual does not suggest you put loctite on these screws. But I imagine most people would anyway (I did). However, I did not torque all the bolts to spec. I went about 6Nm below spec - absolutely no scientific reasoning behind this figure. This is because when I use Loctite, (I think) it inadvertently reduces the friction as the screws go in, which could increase the risk of stripping the threads (as it would apply more pulling force On the threads under the same factory turning torque of the screws). I chose to have the screws looser but mark the 6 o’clock position of the screws (after tightening) with a marker (tip-ex or permanent marker) so that I can keep an eye on them in case they loosen under vibration. If they loosen then I can always tighten but if I strip the threads then I’d be in a bigger trouble.

good luck!
 

Cláudio Nogueira

2021
CB650R ABS
Jan 26, 2022
Portugal
Riding Since
1992
Hello.

You got the right info from other members above.
If you want to be safe before complaining to dealer, I advise you to put the bike on a rear stand and jack the motor with a car jack and a piece of wood on the crankcase. When you can see the holes aligned, you can then thread the bolt by hand and torque it to the sepc mentioned above. Don´t crossthread the bolt! Start it by hand, you should feal it smoth.
My personal opinion, don’t use sliders on these points. There is a real risk that the sliders act as a lever and brake the engine mounts.
You fall and scratch the engine casing, not a big deal, you can simply replace the covers. Not cheap but it's not the end of the world.
If you have a motor mount broken, then it's "the end of the world"! To fix it right you need the engine out and dismantled to change the entire block. Not to mention the possibility to also damage the frame.
I personally decided NOT to assemble sliders on this bike for that real risk. We have reports on this forum of broken mounts both front and rear.
Falling should be considered a rare event, right ;-)
If sliders were a good idea, motorcycle makers would fit them out of the factory. A pair of slides cost as much as pair of Alpinestars boots. I've seen bikers with fancy sliders riding on sneakers ;-)
 
Last edited:

Morphix

CB650R ABS
Sep 29, 2023
Riding Since
2003
Hello,

You should definitely not drive like this.
It is an M12x40mm with part number 90167-GHB-710.
Torque is 59Nm
they use a different bolt , with settings around 40nm i believe , also the bolt bends in a crash , not break , so i would say get another bolt from the manifacturer.
 

Redrocket

CBR650R
Mar 17, 2023
Riding Since
1968
Having fitted the R&G crash bungs to my new CBR650R I found the fitting instructions confusing and contradictory. As said above, the USP of the R&G ones is that the bolts are designed to bend in a crash or drop. Reference is made in the instructions to not over-tightening them. But the same token I didn’t find it at all clear as to whether or not they should be done up as tight as the original bolts, of different head size and length but obviously the same thread. This is perhaps why they come loose. The one on the rhs did so on mine but it was obvious to me that this had happened because of the increase in vibration. I periodically check mine now. The argument that if they were necessary doesn’t hold water. I find that a rad guard is essential as you only have to sneeze on the rad to bend the cooling fins. In fact at its first service in the video report the m cynic advised me to fit a guard because of the bent fins….An essential part (for road riding) not fitted as standard, same with a Fenda extender…
 
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