All 650's PAIR VALVE REMOVAL (improved version)

[schmoosmith]

Just a data point on the MAP sensor issue above: there are two fueling strategies used in electronic fuel injection. One uses a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor as its main input, which provides actual airflow, air density, air temp and baro. The second is MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure), which uses engine vacuum and then makes a guess on actual airflow based with TPS and RPM from a pre-programmed fuel table. MAF is way more accurate, but also more expensive. These bikes use the MAP strategy and it the MAP is unplugged or erratic you will get really funky idling and fuel delivery as it’s using the wrong fueling map for the actual conditions.

95% sure it was the MAP sensor. Was the module attached to the airbox? The tube plugged in the bottom of it?

It was a little thin tube that went onto sensor, it was running really lumpy before I re-checked everything. Despite being 2015 I did also add the resistor, I happed to have one so didn't see any harm putting it on there.

 

[anttihyy]

Ran into a problem after removing the pair valve. I used the smartmoto kit.
At the same time I fitted PCV and K&N air filter.

Everything in the assembly itself went according the plan and following the instructions. I removed one of the plates in the reeds before figuring out that I had the upgraded plates so they wouldn't have to be removed, but I think it won't make a difference. I also didn't have the resistor on hand the night I completed the job so I left the plug at sight so I could fit resistor afterwards.

I think I made a mistake firing up the bike without the resistor cause the check engine light came on. Also the "T" (wheel spin control?) symbol light and the ABS lights were on in the dash. I fitted the resistor today but no change with the lights. Also the bike runs well on idle but when rev'd above 4000rpm starts to run worse. Any ideas what could've gone wrong?

 

[Ive]

I think I made a mistake firing up the bike without the resistor cause the check engine light came on. Also the "T" (wheel spin control?) symbol light and the ABS lights were on in the dash. I fitted the resistor today but no change with the lights. Also the bike runs well on idle but when rev'd above 4000rpm starts to run worse. Any ideas what could've gone wrong?

The traction control light stays on at startup, but will turn off after the bike gets rolling past about 5 Km/h.

As for your CEL/MIL, if it stays on after the engine is running, look up the code to be sure of your starting point of diagnoses. It may be the lack of resistor.
I have the same year as you, and I had no CELs after installing the PAIR block-off plates. However I installed the resistors right off the bat with the plates, and never ran the bike without them (I used four of the same resistors in a series-parallel configuration for wattage dissipation), so I can't attest for certain if a CEL would be thrown for a missing PAIR valve, though the service manual definitely eludes to that it will.

Did you make sure your MAP sensor line was hooked back up?

 

[Motojack]

I am picking up a euro5 '21 CBR650R soon, has anyone done the pair removal on this yet? I want to order the blanking plates and resistor for it I am just hoping its the same value I need as the euro4. @Ive which value resistors did you end up hooking in parallel?

 

[miweber929]

Ran into a problem after removing the pair valve. I used the smartmoto kit.
At the same time I fitted PCV and K&N air filter.

Everything in the assembly itself went according the plan and following the instructions. I removed one of the plates in the reeds before figuring out that I had the upgraded plates so they wouldn't have to be removed, but I think it won't make a difference. I also didn't have the resistor on hand the night I completed the job so I left the plug at sight so I could fit resistor afterwards.

I think I made a mistake firing up the bike without the resistor cause the check engine light came on. Also the "T" (wheel spin control?) symbol light and the ABS lights were on in the dash. I fitted the resistor today but no change with the lights. Also the bike runs well on idle but when rev'd above 4000rpm starts to run worse. Any ideas what could've gone wrong?

It will clear itself after 2 or 3 full heat cycles if it doesn’t see a new error.

 

[Ive]

I am picking up a euro5 '21 CBR650R soon, has anyone done the pair removal on this yet? I want to order the blanking plates and resistor for it I am just hoping its the same value I need as the euro4. @Ive which value resistors did you end up hooking in parallel?

With a PAIR solenoid allowed-resistivity variance of 23-27 ohms, I chose to use the higher-end of the variance (27 ohms), so that it was the least load on the ECU, though anything in that range would be acceptable.

At ~12V with a 27 ohm load, the power going through the resistor(s) would be ~5.3 Watts. To get the 1% tolerance resistors I was looking for, they maxed out at a 3 watt rating. With R-total of parallel resistance being the inverse of [1/R1 + 1/R2, etc.] and R-total of series resistance [R1 + R2, etc.] (same math principles for impedance matching for audio speakers), to keep things uniform and simple (the resistors I got came in a 10-pack), I used four 27 ohm resistors in series/parallel combination:



And this is what it looked like before I heat-shrinked and wrapped it up:



In all honesty, you'd be fine to use a single 25-ohm, 10 watt, ceramic wire-wound resister resistor like this one.

This is all assuming that the 2021+ 650Rs, with their Euro 5 compliance, uses the same PAIR solenoid.

 

[anttihyy]

The traction control light stays on at startup, but will turn off after the bike gets rolling past about 5 Km/h.

As for your CEL/MIL, if it stays on after the engine is running, look up the code to be sure of your starting point of diagnoses. It may be the lack of resistor.
I have the same year as you, and I had no CELs after installing the PAIR block-off plates. However I installed the resistors right off the bat with the plates, and never ran the bike without them (I used four of the same resistors in a series-parallel configuration for wattage dissipation), so I can't attest for certain if a CEL would be thrown for a missing PAIR valve, though the service manual definitely eludes to that it will.

Did you make sure your MAP sensor line was hooked back up?

I re-checked all the connections and seemed ok to me. I checked the code and it gives 8 blinks (tp-sensor I assume?) So could this not be related to the pair valve at all but more to the PCV?

 

[Brammers]

I'd say check the tp sensor wires and ensure the pc5 cable is located securely and plugged in properly.

J

 

[anttihyy]

I'd say check the tp sensor wires and ensure the pc5 cable is located securely and plugged in properly.

J

Turned out to be a faulty connector on PCV wire connecting to TP-sensor. Fixed and no more CEL!
Sorry for OT!

 

[Fstep87]

Hi! Just orderred the Akrapovic exhaust for CBR650R with no catalytic converter.

Opened a tank today to check what is there regarding the pair. Have some newbie questions. I honestly read all 19 + 4 pages...


Is there any disadvantage of just keeping the hose closed? I don't care about 1 kilo weight.

My plan is:

-Disconnect a hose (marked green). Do not disconnect any else , so no resistors will be needed.
-Put something inside hose and tighen with a clamp.So hose will be vacuumed.
-Put a plastic cap on the valve part , where hose was connected. It will not be vacuumed, but I think it is not needed.

Will I still have any sound/throttle issue? Can I leave on that mode forever?

I really afraid to go further and brake something on engine.

 

[Jluu]

Hi! Just orderred the Akrapovic exhaust for CBR650R with no catalytic converter.

Opened a tank today to check what is there regarding the pair. Have some newbie questions. I honestly read all 19 + 4 pages...
View attachment 10161

Is there any disadvantage of just keeping the hose closed? I don't care about 1 kilo weight.

My plan is:

-Disconnect a hose (marked green). Do not disconnect any else , so no resistors will be needed.
-Put something inside hose and tighen with a clamp.So hose will be vacuumed.
-Put a plastic cap on the valve part , where hose was connected. It will not be vacuumed, but I think it is not needed.

Will I still have any sound/throttle issue? Can I leave on that mode forever?

I really afraid to go further and brake something on engine.


View attachment 10160

This is exactly what I've done with mine and it is working perfectly. No error codes. Rides better and no more popping noises from exhaust when throttling off.

I capped the hose end as well so no air into either ports.

 

[mcphatty]

Alright, how in the heck are you guys getting these pair valves out of the bike?! I started tearing the bike down- removed the gas tank and airbox, but I still cannot easily reach the screws to remove the PAIR valves. Should I be removing the air intakes on the side of the bike? Maybe the ignition coils on the triple tree? Do I just need a socket extension with a U-joint?

In the meantime I've just plugged the intake hose for the PAIR solenoid with a marble, and it's doing the job. But after spending some money on the block off plates, I'd like to use those permanently.

 

[baugustine]

Alright, how in the heck are you guys getting these pair valves out of the bike?! I started tearing the bike down- removed the gas tank and airbox, but I still cannot easily reach the screws to remove the PAIR valves. Should I be removing the air intakes on the side of the bike? Maybe the ignition coils on the triple tree? Do I just need a socket extension with a U-joint?

In the meantime I've just plugged the intake hose for the PAIR solenoid with a marble, and it's doing the job. But after spending some money on the block off plates, I'd like to use those permanently.

Extensions and wobbles are a must-have. Due to some tight spaces I also recommend a 1/4” drive metric set as opposed to 3/8” for many fasteners.

 

[Cbat]

This machining new? A few less steps if not remove reed valves...which I am anyhow.

 

[Brammers]

Remove the valves but not their casings... You need to keep the rubber seals in place!

J

 

[Cbat]

Remove the valves but not their casings... You need to keep the rubber seals in place!

J

Yes, did that. I had to grind off the backs of the those tiny JIS screws to remove the valves from the casings. I suspect that's why everyone is stripping them cause they are not meant to be removed. Couple of turns and the valves come out.

 

[CRSCB650]

Someone should contact honda and inform them of the mistake there making installing these, I mean what do they know

 

[Motojack]

Someone should contact honda and inform them of the mistake there making installing these, I mean what do they know

At least with Brexit you guys can ignore these Euro regs? or not?

 

[baugustine]

Someone should contact honda and inform them of the mistake there making installing these, I mean what do they know

I’m guessing their cost is around $50 to install the system. I’m 100% confident they would not if it was not an emissions requirement to sell the bike in almost all markets 🙄

 

[Xaos636]

Hello guys, good day. Just wanted to know if 19-20 650R version blockoff plates are a fit for 2016 650F. Driven racing shows only 19-20 blockoff plates now.
kindly confirm the same and if there are other options in US to get the same. Thank you